questions on lowering my ride :D
#13
We still need to know your car model and year before we can tell/suggest anything. and we have a photoshop subforum where people can edit an image of your car to look like what you want. If you provide a picture and tell them what you want, then they might help you out.
#15
Don't get dropzone anything... it's garbage. With car parts it's kinda like "go big or go home" so to speak. What I mean is, you don't cheap out on your car. Get a real name brand.
My recommendation is what I have, simply because I have it and love it. I have KYB AGX adjustable shocks, and H&R Sport Springs. The KYB AGX's are adjustable and that's great because you can adjust them to the stiffness you like in a matter of like 30 seconds total for all 4. The H&R's are advertised to lower 1.6" in the front, 1.8" in the rear, but it's more like 2" all the way around. They can be had on eBay for $190 total after shipping. AGX's are like $330 total. You could also get KYB GR2's, which are similar but non-adjustable. They are less expensive.
My recommendation is what I have, simply because I have it and love it. I have KYB AGX adjustable shocks, and H&R Sport Springs. The KYB AGX's are adjustable and that's great because you can adjust them to the stiffness you like in a matter of like 30 seconds total for all 4. The H&R's are advertised to lower 1.6" in the front, 1.8" in the rear, but it's more like 2" all the way around. They can be had on eBay for $190 total after shipping. AGX's are like $330 total. You could also get KYB GR2's, which are similar but non-adjustable. They are less expensive.
#16
I bought AGX shocks/struts(comes with dial to adjust stiffness) and H&R springs. The springs are soft and lower the car about 1.7" and 1.8" all around. But I run 2054017's and the front tucks a little while the back is flush with the fender.
You're going to have to roll the fenders for all four corners and for the front there's a section right above the middle of the tire that's going to have to be hammered down or else you risk that beam slicing through your tires. Just what I had to learn since I never saw this "warning" before I did my install lol
And when you're doing the new shock/strut install that's a good time to look at the bushings of other parts and see if they need replacing.
Soon here I'm going to replace the rear trailing arm bushings and the front sway bar end links, might even replace the rear lca. I figured if I replace them I'd never have to worry about them later, although some could use a replacing right now. Spend a little extra and have it running like new or better
You're going to have to roll the fenders for all four corners and for the front there's a section right above the middle of the tire that's going to have to be hammered down or else you risk that beam slicing through your tires. Just what I had to learn since I never saw this "warning" before I did my install lol
And when you're doing the new shock/strut install that's a good time to look at the bushings of other parts and see if they need replacing.
Soon here I'm going to replace the rear trailing arm bushings and the front sway bar end links, might even replace the rear lca. I figured if I replace them I'd never have to worry about them later, although some could use a replacing right now. Spend a little extra and have it running like new or better
#17
Yea, that thing is a pain in the ***, and it's beyond me why it's even there. On of my tires has a gash in it from that. I cut away the loose rubber to prevent it from further unwinding off the tire.
#18
the only time my tires rub is when I'm making a uturn or a sharp turn and there's a dip in the road at the same time.
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