new suspension
#1
11-18-2006 | 11:37 PM
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 992
From:
new suspension
well after having some cheap coilovers on the car for just over a year. it finally took its toll on the struts and now its riding harder than ever and needs to be replaced.
AND GUESS WHAT?!?!?! after talking with Drbyers, i got a whole new Ksport coil-over kit. i just received them today and tomorrow i will be installing them. and drbyers, if you read this, go ahead and tell me the tricks you learned while installing them. you are right, the installation sheet is useless. lol
too lazy to post pix of them still in the box, but will take pix once they are installed on the car tomorrow afternoon.
got the whole set for under $600 just like drbyers too. gotta love hook ups.
AND GUESS WHAT?!?!?! after talking with Drbyers, i got a whole new Ksport coil-over kit. i just received them today and tomorrow i will be installing them. and drbyers, if you read this, go ahead and tell me the tricks you learned while installing them. you are right, the installation sheet is useless. lol
too lazy to post pix of them still in the box, but will take pix once they are installed on the car tomorrow afternoon.
got the whole set for under $600 just like drbyers too. gotta love hook ups.
#3
11-19-2006 | 12:38 AM
HCF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,371
From:
RE: new suspension
hey psycho, print these helpful hints out (and yes, they can apply to other coilover installations):
tools needed:
1. air impact wrench (if you can get your hands on one, if not, socket set with breaker bar extension)
2. tire jack (hydraulic is preferable)
3. jack stands (for extra safety)
4. measuring tape (vital)
5. spring compressors (you may or may not need them)
6. rubber hammer (you may have to knock frozen OEM struts loose from the chassis)
7. extra help (vital)
8. zip ties
directions:
start off by looking at this DIY from team-integra. It ROOLS, but it's not perfect because you'll be doing a full coilover installation. They're doing a shock + coilover spring installation. http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=494
After reading it and printing it out, follow these hints:
- before you start, make sure you WRITE DOWN measurements of the distance from each wheel's centermost point to the fender edge directly above it.
the empty space is the "gap" that people often want to eliminate by lowering their car.
For instance, say it's 14 inches from the front wheel center point to the fender edge, and you want to lower your car 1 inch. To achieve the 1 inch drop, you'll compare the new front coilover strut to the OEM strut, and then make the new strut one inch shorter in length by shortening the shock body (twisting the body on it's threads).
you use this process for each strut location.
and don't be fooled. the front fender gap may not equal the rear fender gap. My integra didn't initially, with more of a gap up front.
if you're unsure, try having the rear slightly higher. you can always lower the rear struts to match the fronts a lot easier, than readjusting the fronts to match the rears.
- do NOT preload the new coilovers by overtightening the spring spacer (cogwheel looking thingies).
just twist it upward on the threaded shock body by hand until it touches firmly against the spring, not compressing it. This is a noob mistake that a lot of ksport buyers have often complained about on honda-tech. They preload the shock springs and then complain their ride is too harsh.
- there are NO mounting points for brake lines on the new struts so use zip ties to secure the brake lines instead, but don't make them so tight that they'll rub against either strut assembly or the fender wall. this could cause your brake lines to wear and eventually leak causing a possible dangerous failure.
I used electrical tape anywhere the brake lines might rub against something inside the fender well and shock assembly to help reduce the friction.
- you will not need any parts of the OEM struts or springs so DO NOT take them apart by taking the top hats off. this is extremely dangerous, so don't even think about it.
I said you may need the spring compressors because you may need to compress the OEM springs on the front struts while they're still inside the fender well to clear the brake assembly.
- it may be easier to just take the rear lower control arms off completely while installing the rear struts. It's not neccessary, but I did.
- finally, when you finally do have your new suspension put in: take it out for a test ride first with the struts set at Full H (Hard). It's going to be super stiff.
then get out and put them on full S (Soft). Your ride should be nearly OEM compliant.
from there you can adjust the shocks to what you want.
I have mine set at two twists toward Hard past the halfway point. It takes about 9 twists to from full H to full S on my ksports.
And one last thing, start early, because this may be an all-day adventure. at least 3-4 hours.
tools needed:
1. air impact wrench (if you can get your hands on one, if not, socket set with breaker bar extension)
2. tire jack (hydraulic is preferable)
3. jack stands (for extra safety)
4. measuring tape (vital)
5. spring compressors (you may or may not need them)
6. rubber hammer (you may have to knock frozen OEM struts loose from the chassis)
7. extra help (vital)
8. zip ties
directions:
start off by looking at this DIY from team-integra. It ROOLS, but it's not perfect because you'll be doing a full coilover installation. They're doing a shock + coilover spring installation. http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=494
After reading it and printing it out, follow these hints:
- before you start, make sure you WRITE DOWN measurements of the distance from each wheel's centermost point to the fender edge directly above it.
the empty space is the "gap" that people often want to eliminate by lowering their car.
For instance, say it's 14 inches from the front wheel center point to the fender edge, and you want to lower your car 1 inch. To achieve the 1 inch drop, you'll compare the new front coilover strut to the OEM strut, and then make the new strut one inch shorter in length by shortening the shock body (twisting the body on it's threads).
you use this process for each strut location.
and don't be fooled. the front fender gap may not equal the rear fender gap. My integra didn't initially, with more of a gap up front.
if you're unsure, try having the rear slightly higher. you can always lower the rear struts to match the fronts a lot easier, than readjusting the fronts to match the rears.
- do NOT preload the new coilovers by overtightening the spring spacer (cogwheel looking thingies).
just twist it upward on the threaded shock body by hand until it touches firmly against the spring, not compressing it. This is a noob mistake that a lot of ksport buyers have often complained about on honda-tech. They preload the shock springs and then complain their ride is too harsh.
- there are NO mounting points for brake lines on the new struts so use zip ties to secure the brake lines instead, but don't make them so tight that they'll rub against either strut assembly or the fender wall. this could cause your brake lines to wear and eventually leak causing a possible dangerous failure.
I used electrical tape anywhere the brake lines might rub against something inside the fender well and shock assembly to help reduce the friction.
- you will not need any parts of the OEM struts or springs so DO NOT take them apart by taking the top hats off. this is extremely dangerous, so don't even think about it.
I said you may need the spring compressors because you may need to compress the OEM springs on the front struts while they're still inside the fender well to clear the brake assembly.
- it may be easier to just take the rear lower control arms off completely while installing the rear struts. It's not neccessary, but I did.
- finally, when you finally do have your new suspension put in: take it out for a test ride first with the struts set at Full H (Hard). It's going to be super stiff.
then get out and put them on full S (Soft). Your ride should be nearly OEM compliant.
from there you can adjust the shocks to what you want.
I have mine set at two twists toward Hard past the halfway point. It takes about 9 twists to from full H to full S on my ksports.
And one last thing, start early, because this may be an all-day adventure. at least 3-4 hours.
#10
11-19-2006 | 06:40 PM
HCF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,371
From:
RE: new suspension
hey psycho, i forgot to mention the obvious: once you have your new struts in place, tighten the spacers with the provided strut wrenches VERY TIGHTLY before putting your wheels back on.
both the upper spring spacer/perch and the lower shock body spacer.
and then take your tape measure and measure the height of the exposed silver thread area on the shock body. make sure the fronts are equal in height and the rears are equal in height.
this is to ensure you're suspension is level and you're alignment won't be all wonky, causing uneven tire wear.
both the upper spring spacer/perch and the lower shock body spacer.
and then take your tape measure and measure the height of the exposed silver thread area on the shock body. make sure the fronts are equal in height and the rears are equal in height.
this is to ensure you're suspension is level and you're alignment won't be all wonky, causing uneven tire wear.