not technically a problem i guess, but when i brake in my car, i feel a pulsing(i guess thats what i'd call it) against my foot from the pedal, and if there's no music on you can hear a slight squeaky sound.
i dont know if its much to worry about my boss said i probably had a warped rotor.

do i have to replace the rotor or just the brake pads? or both? or should i just leave it.

if i have to, im going to do it myself which is why i put it in this section: can anyone tell me how to install them?(only if you think i need it)

 

same thing happened to my car, im pretty sure its the rotors, i had some resedue left on one spot because i parked the car for a few months and wouldnt wear down, i replaced the rotors but not the pads as they were fairly thick... hope this helps

 

http://www.procivic.com/pages-produc...406/index.html do you think that these would be good? and i think i should get slotted;; im not looking for heavy performance im looking for something that wont wear so easy. im guessing procivic would have the best one??

 

rotors and brake pads are easy to change on a 2002, i did mine and took me no time. do you know how to change the pads? just dont hang the brake caliper by the brake line, hang it by a rope or something or else the brake line will come loose and you will have a lot more work to do, and a fun little mess to clean up. the rotors just unscrew from the front i think, i dont rember to well. i would go out to my car and look, but its about 18 degrees outside. the best thing to do would be to by a manual. i have a helms manual and its the best investment ever, it tells you EVERYTHING about the car. do a google search on how to change brakes if you dont know how. as for if you need to change them, do your pads look worn down, and are the rotors worn?

 

also, forgot to add++++
when im breaking from a higher speed, the car kinda shakes and vibrates. especially the steering wheel, its like loud

is that just how abs is??

 

if the pulsating, shaking and vibrations all happen ONLY when the brakes are applied with little to fair amount of pressure, then yes its probably just warped rotors. if those things happen ONLY when the brakes are applied with a strong amount of pressure, that would be the ABS working which is fine.

the rotors you linked above are fine but u really dont need anything slotted or drilled. slotted or drilled rotors will actually wear down pads faster. blanks vent heat just fine and are cheaper so go with those. brand dosnt matter too much so long as its not some cheap ebay stuff. stuff from like advanced auto, napa, autozone, etc will do.

to replace them is pretty straight forward. take wheel off, take caliper and caliper mounting bracket off, remove a couple screws on the rotor and hit the rotor with a hammer untill it falls loose. mount new rotor(u dont need to reuse those screws), place the mounting bracket back on, grease and install new pads(if u need to get them), push the caliper piston back in with a c-clamp or w/e, and bolt the caliper back on.

 

Typically, there are two reasons why this would happen when applying the brakes.

1. Uneven pad deposits on the rotor: Some pad materials lend themselves to sticking to hot spots on the rotor. This is a common occurance with 97-04 Corvettes, especially if the car is not driven in such a manner that heavy braking is common.
What prevents this from happening? Ceramic pads often help, and "proper bedding" of the pads is said to be good prevention, but as a guarantee against this condition, slotted rotors are the solution.

2. Warped rotors: This can happen more readily if the rotors are thin enough so that heat dissipation is insufficient. This should not happen with legally-thick rotors unless the wheels are improperly torqued. Many people mistake uneven pad deposits for warped rotors. Cryo-treated rotors offer better protection against true warping because the surface layer of the rotor is harder than that of an untreated rotor.

If you drive normally, slotted rotors will provide:

a) a fresh pad surface for maximum braking effectiveness and elimination of pulsating brakes due to uneven pad deposition and
b) elimination of glazing due to limited driving/braking.

I've been running Cryo-treated PowerSlots on my other car for almost 8000 miles now and have had zero problems. Previously, uneven pad deposits would require machining of the rotors every 6000 miles - a pain in the butt. These rotors are not inexpensive, but will probably be the last rotors I ever buy for that car.

 

yeah, i dont have abs. i'll just be safe and get both rotors and pads. they're not that expensive so why not