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Brake rotors - drilled or slotted?

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  #31  
Old 06-06-2009, 04:30 PM
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^ Not if you're buying more pads, comes out to the same cost basically in an ideal situation.
 
  #32  
Old 06-06-2009, 09:16 PM
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Having harder rotors does not necessarily mean the pads will wear faster, but yes, slotted and/or driller rotors will wear the pads down a bit faster. The good thing is that pads are usually easy to replace, whereas a rotor change often requires bleeding every corner - a real pain.
 
  #33  
Old 06-06-2009, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by conceptualpolymer
...a rotor change often requires bleeding every corner...
what?
 
  #34  
Old 06-06-2009, 10:29 PM
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I was referring to pad life, not rotor strength and hardness. I think he was referring to bleeding the system to equip the brake pedal feel with new rotor and pad thickness.
 
  #35  
Old 06-07-2009, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by trustdestruction
what?
DITO..... WTF rotor change needing to bleed the brakes.... i hope that was a drunk post.LOL

you should always bleed the brakes IMO after compressing the calipers pistons when changing pads. its just added prevention to be sure no air or water into the system. it only takes a few pumps per wheel not that much. its not needed but to me its just better safe that sorry. and if youve never bleed your brakes i suggest you fully bleed the system out till you get clear fluid. old fluid is just nasty looking that can hurt your brakes performance.
 
  #36  
Old 06-07-2009, 05:41 PM
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Well, I've been bleeding brakes for many years and I can tell you without a doubt that you do NOT have to bleed air out of your brake lines if you do a simple pad change. I guess the same thing is true of a rotor change, but as I mentioned, the benefits of buying good quality cryo-rotors far outweigh saving money on buying inexpensive blank rotors if you are going to keep your car for many years.

You should flush the brake fluid every few years and bleed the fluid if changing or rebuilding the calipers.
 
  #37  
Old 06-07-2009, 08:29 PM
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I agree, my next set of rotors will be cyro
 
  #38  
Old 06-08-2009, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by conceptualpolymer
Well, I've been bleeding brakes for many years and I can tell you without a doubt that you do NOT have to bleed air out of your brake lines if you do a simple pad change. I guess the same thing is true of a rotor change, but as I mentioned, the benefits of buying good quality cryo-rotors far outweigh saving money on buying inexpensive blank rotors if you are going to keep your car for many years.

You should flush the brake fluid every few years and bleed the fluid if changing or rebuilding the calipers.

how fast do you go thru brakes? just curious.... because me myself only change the brakes every year or two.LOL so i bleed the brakes at the same time
but anytime you have a brake line leaking or open/loosen any part of the brake system other than the brake fluid level tank you should always bleed the system to be safe! otherwise you could have air in the system and a soft/ skwishy pedal and very poor brake performance.
 
  #39  
Old 06-08-2009, 07:31 PM
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I have an 89 Mazda MX6 GT that still has pads that I put on about 8 years ago (It may be due). I also have an 01 Corvette (PowerSlot Cryos) that probably won't need pads for another 6 years. But brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, so regardless of how often you change pads, the fluid should be flushed every 3-5 years. I agree that IF you have a leak or change the calipers, you should bleed out any air bubbles from the fluid, but really, how often does that happen? I haven't seen a leak in a brake line in a loooooong time!
 
  #40  
Old 06-09-2009, 10:24 AM
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o well my front caliper bolt actually got loose on my 96 civic and started leaking... then on my old crx i had it rusted thru a line, my junk truck blew a rubber brake line, and my impala has had plenty of rusted thru lines.LOL
ive fixed alot of brake lines.


but you must not drive very much. i typically go thru front pads in about 2years.
 


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