Brake rotors - drilled or slotted?
#21
What rotors you get for a civic doesn't matter. The first time you slam your brakes, maybe a second time, the rotors are finished. Trust me. I go through rotors every 3 months. Though the pads I get has copper shards in it, and they last for about a year.
#22
That should not happen.
#23
What Trust said, that shouldn't be happening. What pads are you using with what rotors? I'm running stock pads/rotors and have had to brake very heavily a few times, and my rotors remained true. Whether the stock rotors can handle an aggressive aftermarket pad and heavy braking I'm not sure.
#25
Slotted/drilled rotors if top quality type are definitely the best choice. They dissipate heat faster and don't have as much friction co-efficient to heat up in the first place. Reduced heat means much lower chance of warping your rotors. Clearly, the best choice is bigger rotors/calipers first, then slotted/drilled. It has nothing to do with high speed racing and braking frequency, and everything to do with eliminating over heating for what ever the reason is.
Look at what is on more expensive cars, it is always bigger brakes. Bigger = better, the reason they are not on less expensive cars is to keep costs down and profits up.
A perfect example of this is how GM uses the exact same calipers and rotors on a suburban as they do on the C1500 pick up truck. I was replacing pads on my suburban every 20,000 miles because there was not enough pad there to stop the weight of the vehicle, my rotors went because they were heating up and warping.
Obviously you are not drag racing or road racing a suburban, but in that application a soluiton is bigger rotors/calipers first and then of course dissipating the heat, which is done with slotted/drilled rotors.
Look at what is on more expensive cars, it is always bigger brakes. Bigger = better, the reason they are not on less expensive cars is to keep costs down and profits up.
A perfect example of this is how GM uses the exact same calipers and rotors on a suburban as they do on the C1500 pick up truck. I was replacing pads on my suburban every 20,000 miles because there was not enough pad there to stop the weight of the vehicle, my rotors went because they were heating up and warping.
Obviously you are not drag racing or road racing a suburban, but in that application a soluiton is bigger rotors/calipers first and then of course dissipating the heat, which is done with slotted/drilled rotors.
#27
I had Power Stop cross drilled rotors and AEM pads on my Accord LXi. They made a huge difference in stopping power and pedal feel. I never had a problem with this setup, would stop on a dime. On my Supra Turbo I had Power Slot slotted rotors and Hawk pads. In both cases the vented rotors made a big improvement in braking. Go with either it really is just about the look between the 2, so long as you get a good brand. Cheap drilled rotors will crack on you.
#30
Cryo-slotted rotors will easily out-last most blank rotors. In fact, if you buy good quality rotors like PowerSlot cryos, they will probably be the LAST rotors you ever buy. You pay more in the biginning, but in the end, you save money, especially if you keep your car for many years.