Thanks to trustdestruction for this information:


All specs below are according to the Honda Service Manual (except info about ARP head studs).


D15B7 & D15B8

Torque Sequence:

8 6 2 4 10
9 3 1 5 7
(front of car)

In 2 steps:

1. 22 lb-ft
2. 47 lb-ft



D15Z1 & D16Z6

Torque Sequence:

8 6 2 4 10
9 3 1 5 7
(front of car)

In 2 steps:

1. 22 lb-ft
2. 53 lb-ft



D16Y5, D16Y7, & D16Y8

Torque Sequence:

9 3 1 5 7
8 6 2 4 10
(front of car)

In 4 steps:

1. 14 lb-ft
2. 36 lb-ft
3. 49 lb-ft
4. 49 lb-ft (bolts 1-2 only this time)



D15B1, D15B2, D16A6, & D16A7

Torque Sequence:

8 6 2 4 10
9 3 1 5 7
(front of car)

In 2 steps:

1. 22 lb-ft
2. 49 lb-ft



D16A8 & D16A9 (DOHC ZC)

Torque Sequence:

7 3 1 5 9
8 4 2 6 10
(front of car)

In 2 steps:

1. 22 lb-ft
2. 49 lb-ft



B16A2

Torque Sequence:

9 5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6 10
(front of car)

In 2 steps:

1. 22 lb-ft
2. 61 lb-ft



B18B1

Torque Sequence:

8 4 2 6 10
7 3 1 5 9
(front of car)

In 2 steps:

1. 22 lb-ft
2. 61 lb-ft



B18C1 & B18C5

Torque Sequence:

9 5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6 10
(front of car)

In 2 steps:

1. 22 lb-ft
2. 60 lb-ft (according to 94-97 manual), 63 lb-ft (according to 98-01 manual)



ARP Head Studs

With ARP head studs, most people add a step to the end of the OEM torque steps at about 10 lb-ft or so above the last OEM torque spec, rounded up. For example, on a D16Z6, most people I have encountered add a final step of 65 lb-ft.

After about 10 heat cycles of the engine remove the valve cover and check the torque to make sure they're still at the final torque spec. tighten back to specs if necessary.

The studs themselves should only be hand tightened into the block; the nuts are what you use the torque wrench on. Also, it is easier to lock 2 nuts together on the stud and use a socket wrench on the top nut to tighten the studs, as opposed to using an allen wrench in the allen socket at the top of the stud.