Turbo D17
#52
jw if you have looked into this site? When I was going to build my em2 I used this site alot.
http://www.dezod.com/default.cfm
http://www.dezod.com/default.cfm
#53
I actually really find this site useful now that dezod one. I have been looking at turbo kits on their and think that actually may be the way to go. http://www.dezod.com/pd_dezod_motorsports.cfm
Then i could just do the quarter trick to the wastegate so it closes for a little above 5.88PSI, then get the AEM F/IC with plug in for my car and get that tuned. Along with the flywheel and clutch and i think i should be right around my 200whp
Then i could just do the quarter trick to the wastegate so it closes for a little above 5.88PSI, then get the AEM F/IC with plug in for my car and get that tuned. Along with the flywheel and clutch and i think i should be right around my 200whp
#54
wow.. yeah man, if you are serious about power dezod is the way to go. I'm using a kit from them that is used and its still strong and kickin with no slowing down in sight. i would highly recommend buying anything from them. that turbo kit is the only one for the 7th gen worth spending money on. just an fyi, you wont be anywhere near 200 whp on only 6 psi. I'm tuned on F/IC right now, with a pretty dam good tune on 6.5 psi, I'm sitting right at 170. If you are planning on pushing anywhere past 200 hp, go ahead and step up to k-pro or aem ems. It is very well worth it. Oh I would also invest in a manual boost controller, there are a lot of advantages over just using a wastegate spring, and they can be had for 80 bucks new.
#55
even with the new 7lb ish flywheel you don't think it will be any closer? If i need to i could bump up the PSI and do a retune to get it up there maybe 8-9PSI (Is this getting dangerous on stock internals? As long as its inter-cooled, tuned a little rich. (13:1 ish). After looking at AEM F/IC for a while I really think it is the way to go.
#56
yeah man, you may be getting close with 8 psi. the flywheel won't do much in the way of horsepower though, and the clutch does nothing for it. dont get a 9 lb flywheel though. i have heard a lot of bad things about their streetability. shoot for the street one or whatever, its like 11 lb, its a happy medium between lighter and killing your drivability. find a good tuner and tell him you're shooting for 200 whp, they will do what they need to get it there. 200 is a decent goal, not unreasonable on a stock engine (aka bitch boost). the guy i bought my kit from ran 14 psi at 240 whp for 2 years without any problems. the only problem you will have is a headgasket blowing. and if you replace the studs with arp's and torque em down to 80 ft*lbs you should only have that problem once. oh and you will probably be tuning towards 12:1 afr's but your tuner will know whats best.
#58
uh maybe.. depends on the turbo and the hp level, but its pushing it, get some bigger injectors. an afpr does no good without a walbro, and a return fuel conversion. civic fuel pressure is about 43 psi stock, set it to whatever your tuner thinks you need to set it to.
#59
well guys i guess im no longer going to turbo my civic. I found a guy who wants to trade my 95 civic for a 1990 Thunderbird Supercoupe Supercharged 5spd. 215hp 315ft/lbs. Since this is pretty much a free trade there will be no need to do anything to my civic.
#60
I gotta disagree with you. Its not a matter of "doing it right". The fact fo the matter is, dyno tuning is basically tuning for something you wont be doing all the time. If you did you wouldnt have much of a motor left after half a year. Street tuning is best for daily apps because it what the car sees on the norm. Besides, we are talking about a d17 with No.2 pencils for rods. Dyno tuning will put a hurt on it after awhile.
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