To be honest, those rubber hoses made it way eaiser then trying to plumb a bunch of solid pipe in there. There isn't much room, and the "J-pipe" that comes off of the 14b was pointed in the wrong direction. I had to cut it and weld it going backwards. If I had turned it to where most fmic start, there would be a gnarly 180* going down and then a hard right. I hate that big ghetto piece of charge pipe right in front, but it was the path of least resistance. I have some of that heat wrap that I may put on there; more for looks sake than ambient heat, but every little bit helps right?

And as far as blue smoke, it's actually running quite well. According to the wideband, I am 14.5-14.8 at cruising speed, ~ 16.5 at idle, and right around 10.5 at full boost. A little rich, but safe. It pulls pretty hard. It's a much different feeling than the SC acceleration. It comes on rather than being there all at once. Ifriggin love it.

 

boost ftw

Maybe I missed it, but how many pounds are you runnin?

 

thats kind of what i was wondering, because isnt the internal wastegate on a 14b around 12psi? that seems like a bit much on a stock d-series.

 

Well, it's just over 0.5 kg/cm^2, maybe more like 0.6,and 1 kg/cm2 is 14.22psi. So , I figure it's ~ 7-8psi. Right where it should be.

Is that bars?

edit: ok, 1kg/cm2 = 0.9807 bars. Hmm, pretty close.

 

w.e.l.c.o.m.e back dude long time no see lol. glad to see the project is going smoothly

 

Nice setup. Just a few words of advice...I can't stress it enough that you should not be using a fernco coupling (read: plumbing elbow) for intercooler piping. I learned that the hard way on my 2g eclipse. I have used straight pieces of fernco in setups for TEMPORARY usage, I am assuming that that piece is temporary as well? It was that same exact fernco bend on my car that blew apart when I was on the highway...dodging semis to get to the side of the road isn't a fun thing. If you can't get to somewhere that sells silicone couplers or you just want to keep you setup looking ghetto...then just go to NAPA and get a radiator hose with a bend in it, they are sooo much stronger. As far as the oil return line goes....make sure there are NO KINKS in the line, if that line does get kinked, then oil will backup into the turbo center section and start blowing seals on you. If this setup stays permanent, you might also want to replace any steel piping with aluminum. I say this because oxygen inherently has a certain amount of moisture in it, which will eventually start to oxidize the insides of any steel piping, sending bits of rust into your intake manifold/engine.

 

Thats why most people use aluminized steal instead of stainless for IC piping.

 

ghetto at its finest..........i should take a picture of our $300 toy car we boosted last week..........talk about ghetto hahaha we even welded the turbo to the mani

 

What you just said makes no sense to me. Aluminized steel coating is cheap and inferior to stainless steel, which will last a LOT longer. The piping on the setup in question looks like a regular old non-coated muffler pipe, hence my suggestion. Why not use aluminum piping? Use what is tried and true, don't take a chance with steel pipes.

 

^ ut aluminum wont rust which is what your were saying earlier, an even stainless steel will rust, ask anyone with stainless steel headers or exhaust