pros and cons of dry nitro
#11
RE: pros and cons of dry nitro
iridiums, and i believe the small tippied plats, will melt very quickly in an engine
is a 50 shot going to **** my **** up in the long run.........if its a risk i jsut wont do nitro ill just wait for my turbo money.
#12
RE: pros and cons of dry nitro
nitrous ive heard gets old after a while...its like you hit a button and your getting a few extra ponies for 10 seconds, sacicons is right, a turbo is not much more expensive than a decent nitrous kit and in the long run it will be more of what you want
and to double what finalimpact said, either one will wear down your engine, so it doesnt really matter which you go your gunna need to service it more than w/o forced injection
and to double what finalimpact said, either one will wear down your engine, so it doesnt really matter which you go your gunna need to service it more than w/o forced injection
#14
RE: pros and cons of dry nitro
I would not reccommend a dry shot.
Simple things to remember:
1. You need colder plugs. If a plug melts.... well.... lets just say you wont be driving for a while
2. Be prepared for a nitrous backfire. This sometimes happens on nitrous and will blow your intake into many tiny pieces.
3. You need to upgrade your fuel delivery system a LOT. The problem with dry kits is that if something goes wrong, and your engine doesnt recieve enough fuel, the result is an EXTREMELY lean condition in the engine which also means you probably wont be driving for a while =)
I WOULD reccommend a wet shot or direct port. A wet shot is not that much harder than a dry shot, and a direct port is not that much harder than a wet shot depending on what kind you buy (I/E going through the mainfold or injectors). There is less chance for error on both driver and machine side.
Also if you are going to use nitrous, please please please please PLEASE, use a computer activated switch. When armed, this will only activate the nitrous between a set # of rpms (I/E 2500 and 8000 in my case) and only when the accellerator is at WOT. If your car leaves WOT or the rpms go too low or high, the nitrous will shut off. Safety first :-D
Oh yea, and dont push your car too much. I would go with a 50 shot on stock internals to be safe. Ive seen at least 2 civics blow their engine simply b/c their car couldnt take a 100 shot.
Simple things to remember:
1. You need colder plugs. If a plug melts.... well.... lets just say you wont be driving for a while
2. Be prepared for a nitrous backfire. This sometimes happens on nitrous and will blow your intake into many tiny pieces.
3. You need to upgrade your fuel delivery system a LOT. The problem with dry kits is that if something goes wrong, and your engine doesnt recieve enough fuel, the result is an EXTREMELY lean condition in the engine which also means you probably wont be driving for a while =)
I WOULD reccommend a wet shot or direct port. A wet shot is not that much harder than a dry shot, and a direct port is not that much harder than a wet shot depending on what kind you buy (I/E going through the mainfold or injectors). There is less chance for error on both driver and machine side.
Also if you are going to use nitrous, please please please please PLEASE, use a computer activated switch. When armed, this will only activate the nitrous between a set # of rpms (I/E 2500 and 8000 in my case) and only when the accellerator is at WOT. If your car leaves WOT or the rpms go too low or high, the nitrous will shut off. Safety first :-D
Oh yea, and dont push your car too much. I would go with a 50 shot on stock internals to be safe. Ive seen at least 2 civics blow their engine simply b/c their car couldnt take a 100 shot.
#15
RE: pros and cons of dry nitro
ORIGINAL: pcupo12
true i guess bottles are for babies im just goin to wait till i get the good ol' VRRRRRM PSSSSST
true i guess bottles are for babies im just goin to wait till i get the good ol' VRRRRRM PSSSSST
but if your not running NCCA competitions you could potentially use it if your racing a vette at a stoplight
just make sure to get a turbo and before u get nitrous u shud prolly get racing rods (4340 steel'd prolly b best) and maybe new pistons
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