i think thats the best thing to do in this case..

no offense d17, i know you may not be able to swap, but a large reason (i feel, and most people around me) that people dont run the d17 is because its returnless, and i think that it uses a few different internals. if the after market has opened up now and is heading to the d17, SWEET for you guys! btw: what mani can you swap in? basically, i just know they share some things with the d16, but i dont know what all...so dont point fingers at me.

 

the d16y8 intake manny will fit with a little work... if you are planning on running nitrous, you need to get your motor tuned as well, meaning you need to get a good engine management system... i believe a good piggy back would work well on the d17 with nitrous, because the main thing that needs to be checked is air/fuel ratios when you're on the n2o. also make sure you get the switch that cuts off the wot before you hit redline, because if you are running nitrous when you hit you're rev limiter, you will blow your motor. i can't remember what the switch is called, but from all the research on nitrous that i have done, its best to run nitrous between 3k and 7k rpm.

 

Yeah isnt that the window switch? thats what i am getting for it, i am trying to max out my nitrous system to make it as efficient as possible, and turtle yes the aftermaket has opened up alot the only thing i have found yet are high compression pistons, but i am going to talk to race engineering eventually to get some custom ones. And they make a high pressure fuel pump now that has a return line, so i am going to install that too, its all in a DIY for a manifold swap.

 

Thanks baker, i was aware of the tuning but i dont think they make a piggy back system for OBD-II the only reason i dont wanna boost if for emissions testing, i have been told more often than not that boosting your car has an effect on it. I know of the AEM stand alone, but thats one i dont feel i want to buy ($1600)