I have all of my parts now, car is ready for the machine shop. I have a crome Basemap P28 ECU off Phearable, getting tuned at a local tuner after the machine shop. Tuner says I need to specify the highest RPM to go to, I'm not sure if they will set the vtec engagement or if I will have to tell them. I was thinking either 4800 or 5000?
Here is my setup, anything that is red I already purchased but is not installed yet:
Engine
JDM D15B VTEC
75.5mm Overbored Vitara Pistons with Forged I-Beam Connecting Rods with ARP Rod Bolts (Ready to be installed)
TE04H Turbo *Stock Wastegate at 3 PSI* (Boost controller set around 9psi)
TD05 16G EVO III Turbo *Stock Wastegate at 14.5 PSI* (Ready to be installed)
LSD transmission
Crower Stage 2 Turbo Cam with Crower Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers (Ready to be installed)
ARP Headstuds (Ready to be installed)
HF Manifold (New Racing Turbo Manifold Ready to Be Installed, Will have to extend downpipe
MSD 8.5MM Super Conductor Spark Plug Wires
Spark Plugs (G-Power Platinum)
2" Piping From Turbo To TB
2.5" Downpipe
Magnaflow Cat-Back Exhaust 4" Tip
Painted Valve Cover (Gold)
4-Port Aftermarket Vaccum Bar
460 cc Rx7 injectors (low impedence) with resistor box
Johnny Race Car Style Front Mount Intercooler
Ceramic coated custom piping
P06 ECU chipped for Uberdata
P28 Vtec ECU Chipped W/ Chrome Basemap (Ready to Be Installed)
GM 3 Bar Map Sensor (Ready to Be Installed)
Walbro 255 (Ready to be Installed)
Cometic Headgasket (Ready to be Installed)

What would you guys reccomend I redline the car at, can it handle 8000? Keep in mind I have Crower Valve Springs/Titanium Retainers. I was told my internal wastegate on this turbo is 11-14psi, I will be setting a hi and low setting on my greddy Profec B Spec II EBC. Is 20psi going to be alright with my setup on high boost?

I've already been reading alot, just trying to make sure it will be as reliable as possible.
Thanks Alot

 

Yeah you should eaily be able to redline at 8k if not more with those head upgrades. I would keep the vtec around stock and I guess your running a 16g so you should be able to run 20psi or more but the tune needs to be very good and you will need 93 octane at the very least.

 

Put that thing on a dyno. Set your redline right after your power drops off. To tune your VTEC make one pull with VTEC locked on from idle, then look at your HP peak. Then make a second pull with VTEC shut off, and look at the peak. Set your crossover at an RPM in the middle of the two peaks. Dont pick a PSI, pick a power that youwant and boost to it.

 

It's going on a dyno right after the machine shop. Thanks guys.

 

the blocks not built though...that extra strain is gonna be rough on the block

 

What do you mean the blocks not built? How to you build the block, are you talking about sleeving? Should I get a block guard?

 

I meant rods/pistons/sleeved or block gaurd at the least

 

Werd, your gunna hafta compromise. Yours parts are gunna be able to make some pretty good numbers, but your block looks like its weakest link, so keep things at a safe level for the block to handle.

 

I have rods and pistons. The rods are forged I-beams, the pistons are not forged but are designed for boost. I believe the pistons said they can handle up to 400hp. I plan on hitting low 300's.

I'm looking into a block guard for my JDM D15B, does anyone know what a good brand is?
I saw golden Eagle

And KMS


The KMS has more coolant passages, and it is cheaper. Which do you think would be most effective and do these work with 0.5mm overbored pistons?

 

I've never heard much about kms, but the holes in the guard is a good idea if you go the GE, then get a shop to drill holes