fuel management
#1
fuel management
Ok, I got everything figured out for my d15b except fuel managment. I will be using a t3/t4 turbo, front mount intercooler, etc. I am going to upgrade injectors, rail, and pump. My goal is to run 7-10 psi safely on a daily basis. What do I need to get the right air/fuel ratio? I want to go as cheap and easy as possible, I don't have a lot of money to spend. I want to tune it myself if possible.
#2
RE: fuel management
ORIGINAL: smokingemcee
Ok, I got everything figured out for my d15b except fuel managment. I will be using a t3/t4 turbo, front mount intercooler, etc. I am going to upgrade injectors, rail, and pump. My goal is to run 7-10 psi safely on a daily basis. What do I need to get the right air/fuel ratio? I want to go as cheap and easy as possible, I don't have a lot of money to spend. I want to tune it myself if possible.
Ok, I got everything figured out for my d15b except fuel managment. I will be using a t3/t4 turbo, front mount intercooler, etc. I am going to upgrade injectors, rail, and pump. My goal is to run 7-10 psi safely on a daily basis. What do I need to get the right air/fuel ratio? I want to go as cheap and easy as possible, I don't have a lot of money to spend. I want to tune it myself if possible.
1 - running more than 8psi on stock internals
2 - tuning your own system after a turbo install
and heres why....
1 is just a general rule of thumb i've read in numerous places, it is usually said to be safe to run 6-8psi untill you upgrade your internals to handle more..
2 Tuning a freshly turbo charged engine is not as easy as you may think. I've seen trained professionals get stumped trying to tune an engine.
Just my two cents. Good luck and keep us posted on the outcome.
#4
RE: fuel management
if you can find one, an exhaust temp guage would be a nice idea (ive seen some before, they have two needles, one for pre intercooler and one for post intercooler.) oil pressure and boost are a must too (well...not a must...but theyre a good idea). get it tuned professionally..like theyre all saying.
#5
RE: fuel management
Yeah, I'm getting that gauge pod that mounts right alongside the driverside with boost, air/fuel, oil pressure. So 8 psi is safe to run daily? If i only run 8 psi, do I still need injectors, rail, and fuel pump? And I'm still wondering what I can do for fuel management? What system to use? Do I ahve to have my ecu chipped? What all do I need. I think im going to buy a book on turbos!
#8
RE: fuel management
Running a T3/T04 on a stock D15B is a bad idea. You should be looking for a T-25, something that the engine will actually be able to spool up in a timely fashion...
And yes, anything above 6 or 7 psi on a stock D interior on a daily basis is a good way to blow your s*it up.
And yes, anything above 6 or 7 psi on a stock D interior on a daily basis is a good way to blow your s*it up.
#9
RE: fuel management
bla-bla... you can run 8-10 lbs safely IMO, as long as you do it properly. As for fuel flow... invest in a SAFC or any other type of injector controller.
As for gauges: With FI you want a boost gauge and a FUEL PRESSURE gauge. Those 2 are a must. The air/fuel ratio gauge will just dance around and you will not have an accurate reading from it ever. Actually, the a/f ratio gauge is the biggest waste of time and money IMO... unless you drop a few hundred on a wideband o2 sensor.
Also, Kappa is right... look into a t25 for your setup. It will spool quicker and show better response. I had a garrett t25 a few years back and loved it.
As for gauges: With FI you want a boost gauge and a FUEL PRESSURE gauge. Those 2 are a must. The air/fuel ratio gauge will just dance around and you will not have an accurate reading from it ever. Actually, the a/f ratio gauge is the biggest waste of time and money IMO... unless you drop a few hundred on a wideband o2 sensor.
Also, Kappa is right... look into a t25 for your setup. It will spool quicker and show better response. I had a garrett t25 a few years back and loved it.
#10
RE: fuel management
ORIGINAL: polo708
bla-bla... you can run 8-10 lbs safely IMO, as long as you do it properly. As for fuel flow... invest in a SAFC or any other type of injector controller.
As for gauges: With FI you want a boost gauge and a FUEL PRESSURE gauge. Those 2 are a must. The air/fuel ratio gauge will just dance around and you will not have an accurate reading from it ever. Actually, the a/f ratio gauge is the biggest waste of time and money IMO... unless you drop a few hundred on a wideband o2 sensor.
bla-bla... you can run 8-10 lbs safely IMO, as long as you do it properly. As for fuel flow... invest in a SAFC or any other type of injector controller.
As for gauges: With FI you want a boost gauge and a FUEL PRESSURE gauge. Those 2 are a must. The air/fuel ratio gauge will just dance around and you will not have an accurate reading from it ever. Actually, the a/f ratio gauge is the biggest waste of time and money IMO... unless you drop a few hundred on a wideband o2 sensor.
The vafc and s-afc are junk IMO,outdated overpriced junk.
I am telling you guys to look into uberdata,it will in the end cost around $100 at the most if you are allready OBD1. If you are OBD2 it will run around $300 to $350 total aqnd that also factors in a OBD2 to OBD1 conversion harnees and a OBD1 Uberdata compatable ecu(p06,p08,p28,p30)
The you just get somebodu online to make you some base maps according to your setup,then go to a dyno and iron out a better tune,burn it onto a chip,then place in the ecu and your done.
Uberdata is everything Hondata is but it is still a piggy back.It has launch control,vtec control,you can alter you fuel/ignition/timing maps,and so on and the best thing about it is the price and how easy it is to install