I am turboing my civic here fairly soon and i am wondering if i need to upgrade my fuel injectors or if i can leave it alone for the time being.

 

Stock injectors according to crome are 85% duty cycling stock. With a boosted application making 1.5x the power you're making stock, you will need about 2.5x the fuel.

In short, get yourself a P28 and a set of DSM 450 blue tops. I got mine from a local junkyard, along with a resistor box for $25 (20 for injectors and 5 for box). Get the P28 chipped and tuned with Crome or Uberdata, you'll be well on your way to having a safe, reliable, powerful car if you do that.

 

alright thanks

 

does your chipped ecu control your air/fuel itself since its tuned with crome? cause i need to do something with my ecu SOON! before my motor blows..hah. i got the dsm 450s. i need to ditch my fmu, im looking at fuel pressure regulators as we speak..let me know about the ecu though.

 

To an extent it does, but not where you want it to be.

Basically, when you tune using a chipped ECU, you use the software (Crome) to rewrite the fuel and timing tables of the ECU. If you don't have the means to do this, I guarantee that there are local shop owners or just local guys who can do it for you. It will cost some money, but it's really the best way to do it. Check out www.pgmfi.org for some more info, I'm in the process of learning how to tune a car, it's not hard at all, you just need to have all of the equipment.

There are two types of running sequences on a Honda ECU. Open and Closed loop. Open loop is essentially start up, and WOT. Basically the ECU will read the timing and fuel tables that you created, and run off of them directly. It reads very few sensors, makes no corrections, just reads and inputs. Since you really need to worry about AFRs at WOT, you need to tune it yourself. Closed loop is generally warm up and cruising around. Here, your engine reads your narrowband W02 sensor, along with IAT sensor, TPS, MAP, Knock, etc etc etc and makes corrections using that. A good way to know if you're stock W02 sensor is working is to watch your wideband at idle, it should read 14.5-14.7. When you're cruising around, generally the ECU will take what you wrote down on the fuel and timing maps, and make slight corrections to better improve gas mileage etc.

A VAFC... retards timing and adds masses of amounts of fuel everywhere. In other words, you lose a TON of power and you're gas mileage goes straight down the ****ter.

I get 30+mpg cruising on the highway, and then run 11:5 through boost.