Will my 95 honda civic make it over BIG hills?
#1
Will my 95 honda civic make it over BIG hills?
Hi All
I have a 95 honda civic with 162000 miles. it runs pretty good, although I have noticed over really big hills it feels like its working extra hard and may stop at any moment. When I'm sitting at a stop sign idle - ing my car shakes and the rpms go up and down. I havent had anyone figure out what is causing that. anyways I live in the bay area CA and I am going to Lake tahoe this weekend and I want to know if anyone else has a 95 civic or thinks it can make it? I have hotel reservations and I do have a Tahoe to take if I need to but I'd rather take the Honda seeing as it would be much better with gas.
If anyone has any input or advise on this I would greartly appreciate it! And if anyone knows what might be causing the shaking when Im stopped but the engine is running. Its not a vacuum leak. Had that checked...
Thanks alot!
I have a 95 honda civic with 162000 miles. it runs pretty good, although I have noticed over really big hills it feels like its working extra hard and may stop at any moment. When I'm sitting at a stop sign idle - ing my car shakes and the rpms go up and down. I havent had anyone figure out what is causing that. anyways I live in the bay area CA and I am going to Lake tahoe this weekend and I want to know if anyone else has a 95 civic or thinks it can make it? I have hotel reservations and I do have a Tahoe to take if I need to but I'd rather take the Honda seeing as it would be much better with gas.
If anyone has any input or advise on this I would greartly appreciate it! And if anyone knows what might be causing the shaking when Im stopped but the engine is running. Its not a vacuum leak. Had that checked...
Thanks alot!
#3
IACV
https://www.hondacivicforum.com/foru...ad.php?t=62836
your honda should be able to make it over the hills what model is it lx dx ex ?
https://www.hondacivicforum.com/foru...ad.php?t=62836
your honda should be able to make it over the hills what model is it lx dx ex ?
#5
Uneven idling is usually dirt in the IACV. This really only affects you at idle, performance on the road will be the same. If it shakes on the road too you should consider new spark plugs, wires, etc. In particular check the spark timing with a timing light. That can cause loss of power.
Watch out for overheating. Make sure the radiator and reservoir tank are full of coolant (radiator should be full to the top when you take the cap off with the engine cold). Check that the thin metal fins of the radiator core aren't corroded and falling off. When that starts to happen, the radiator loses a lot of cooling capacity and should be replaced for severe driving.
Watch out for overheating. Make sure the radiator and reservoir tank are full of coolant (radiator should be full to the top when you take the cap off with the engine cold). Check that the thin metal fins of the radiator core aren't corroded and falling off. When that starts to happen, the radiator loses a lot of cooling capacity and should be replaced for severe driving.
#7
If you press on the gas very slightly, can you get a smooth idle? Or will it only run steady if reved up considerably above idle?
If it's the former it still points to the IACV. Make sure the air passages in the intake leading to the IACV are also clean. If you unplug the wires to the IACV, the engine should slow down considerably. If it doesn't change anything the valve is probably bad. The IACV is rather expensive so it's not something you replace just for the heck of it.
If the engine dies instantly with the IACV unplugged, open up the air screw on the top of the throttle body until the engine stays running (slowly) with the IACV unplugged. Do these tests with the engine fully warmed up. Do not adjust the stop screw on the throttle lever.
If it's the former it still points to the IACV. Make sure the air passages in the intake leading to the IACV are also clean. If you unplug the wires to the IACV, the engine should slow down considerably. If it doesn't change anything the valve is probably bad. The IACV is rather expensive so it's not something you replace just for the heck of it.
If the engine dies instantly with the IACV unplugged, open up the air screw on the top of the throttle body until the engine stays running (slowly) with the IACV unplugged. Do these tests with the engine fully warmed up. Do not adjust the stop screw on the throttle lever.
#9
mk378 - thx for the reply. yes it stays at a smooth idle when i press the gas. I will check out the IACV wires tomorrow. hope that works
ron j - thx as well. everything mentioned has been replaced recently. I will have the ignition timing set tomorrow too.
Thanks guys! Ill come back on tomorrow after these tests! Hope it works!
ron j - thx as well. everything mentioned has been replaced recently. I will have the ignition timing set tomorrow too.
Thanks guys! Ill come back on tomorrow after these tests! Hope it works!
#10
also... my CEL is not on and it does not shake when I drive, just while idling. and with the radiator, just had that replaced recently due to overheating. so im pretty sure thats all good
if that helps you diagnose..
if that helps you diagnose..