ok. so i took out the iacv out, cleaned the hell out of another one that i had. filled the 2 holes with carb/valve cleaner, shook it around, poured out the cleaners, and then sprayed the inside with compressed air. did it like 3 times. I then put it in but the car was still idling low after pushing in the clutch and pressing the brake, so i adjusted that screw air screw, and it now idle at like 850-900. when i push in the break and clutch, it drops to like 700 maybe. so far so good. if it does the same, ill unplug the iacv, adjust the air screw so the car sits at 450 rpms, and then plug back in the iacv. thanks for your help mk378 and 94chb

 

Ok the damn problem iis still there. I tried to adjust the airscrew but it didn't make a difference. The more I screwed it in(clockwise) the lowers idle it got. When unscrewing it (counterclock wise) the idle never raised past 3-400. I finally brought the problem to my girls dad whose a mechanic and owns his own shop. And he tried the airscrew and got the same thing. He then checked the tps and nothing. He finally ended up doing something to where the throttle cable connects to (looks like a wheel, and you can rotate to rev the engine when under the hood). That raised the rpms and he adjusted it to sit at 900-1000. He took it for a test drive and the rpms still flucuate. But it seems now that the car is going to be harder to stall on itself. He said its nor the real problem, but its a way to stop it from stalling. But we'll see what time will tell if it works or not. If it doesn't then my mini-me motor will be going in earlier then expected.

 

Start by bleeding the cooling system. Trapped air can cause a hunting idle by discombobulating the ECT sensor.

Your girl's dad did a Band-Aide fix by tightening the throttle cable so that it cannot fully close when your foot is taken off the throttle pedal. After you bleed the cooling system, properly readjust the throttle cable to have about 1/2" of free play. Then adjust the idle speed as shown in the diagram. Your girl's mechanic dad should have a tach to hook up for this procedure. The dash tach is too inaccurate.


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Bleeding the cooling system:

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below (hint: the bleed bolt is located where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine):



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Thanks ronj. I have missed you a lot since you took a long absence. Ill try that and get back to you.

 

Thanks for that great info ronj, but i think im just going to do the swap earlier then intended. My motor now is ticking, burning oil, and the idle problem. Pointless to fix all that when im just going to do a swap come spring time.

But can you tell me , if and how i can test the swap (that will be going in) is a good motor. i got it from my brother or bought it off his friend. My brother said he trust his friend and that its a good motor. but im not 100% sure it is. The block is newly rebuilt, with a mini swap. Is there a way of doing compression test or any other test to verify the engine going in and working. thanks

 

can having a damaged exhaust system help trap air and thus cause a hunting idle by discombobulating the ECT sensor?

 

No
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oh well my honda civic is doing the same except this one is automatic, it doesnt turn off but it certainly feels like its going to...