1998 B18C1, T3/T4 @10psi, GReddy eManage Blue.

A week ago or so it would start sputtering (bogging?) randomly. It didn't seem to matter whether it was idling (in which case it would lose so many RPM's the engine would shut off) or highway speeds, where it would lose power for a split second then be ok again. I had a guy adjust the idle with the screw.

Then while moving to PA, after having driven 400 miles, the engine starts losing power suddenly and it runs a bit louder. You know how a turbo if you step on the accelerator then remove your foot, can make a chattering noise as you remove your foot? It was doing that even if I just lightly stepped on the accelerator.

I pulled over on the highway and it now idles around 200RPM, then the engine just cuts out. It's acting flooded I think.

I'm wondering if it's a MAP sensor issue, O2 sensor... God forbid a cracked manifold or turbo issue... what do you guys think? I'm in State College, PA, where nobody seems to work on turbo vehicles

Thank you so much in advance for your thoughts.

 

DO YOU HAVE GAUGES? and is there a cel? you may have a boost leak, check the couplers on piping. pull plugs to see if you have a fouled spark plug.

 

I have gauges, yes. Oil pressure is at 100, the narrow band stoichiometer is staying at rich now, and I didn't look at boost...

I just replaced the plugs, so they should be fine. The problem happened before I replaced them, too fyi...

Recommended way to check the couplings?

 

All right, update:

Had a guy who's done some work on turbo Civics come look at it and drive it, and it would run basically fine but then at a stop light in neutral the engine would idle really low and die on us. It did that a couple times, so we checked for exhaust leakage (there didn't seem to be any). Then we reset the ECU, looked at the idle air sensor and MAP to make sure they were good and clean, and changed the plugs from V-Power (8's) back to BKR6ES. We drove it around for 5 minutes or so and let it idle for 5 minutes, and the engine didn't die although it was running a bit rich (it always has, but I'm not sure if it was doing it moreso at this point in time as I only have a narrow-band). So I went to drive it home, and the engine started dying on me again. Idling at 200, then just stopping.

The oil should be changed as it's not as clear as it should be, but other than that nothing else really obvious... the turbo was still boosting and all that...

So yeah, I don't know what to do next

 

check spark to see what color it is. if orange than weak coil if blue then coil is good.

if you have a cel. pull the codes.
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1901557

 

Thanks for your advice 04civichatchback.

Unfortunately I'm colorblind but I'll have the guys at Advance look at my used plugs and see what color they are, and get them to run the OBD2 reader as well to see if it throws a code.

At this point I'm also wondering about (based on Googling my symptoms):

pcv valve
fuel pump
O2 sensor

I have the GReddy eManage Blue, and a narrow-band stoichiometer. I'm not sure if this replaced the stock O2 sensor or just reads off of it.
A vacuum leak would cause the engine to be running excessively lean, right? Since extra air is entering the combustion chamber that the sensors aren't aware of?

 

You are going to have to check the spark at the plug wires.

 

Hey guys, ran the OBD2 scanner.

P0108: MAP/BARO circuit high input

P1508 manf cntrl vehicle speed, idle speed control auxilliary inputs

P0135 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1)

P1337 manufacturer control ignition system or misfire

P0141 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2)


So maybe either IACV or MAP? From my (admittedly somewhat weak) understanding, a bad MAP or IACV could cause the O2 sensor error codes. OR- could O2 sensors going bad cause a P1508 or P0108?

Hell, with all these codes maybe it's just a bad fuse??

 

Reset the ecu then start car again and let it run and then pull the codes again, see if they all come back up.

 

I reset the ECU 3 days ago by unplugging the batt for 15 min.

I ran the OBDII scanner yesterday


(edit) Just read that resetting the ECU doesn't clear codes. I'll clear them next chance I get, drive around for a bit then scan again next chance I get.