my 5th generation civic 1995 dx tail lights and cluster didn't work until i switch the fuses. But one thing that is making me feel uneasy is that. The right fuse for it is 10A, but i switch it, and all it keeps on doing is blowing up the fuse
10A that i bought just keeps blowing out. it's the right average rating though.????.. but when i put in a 20A in for the replacement of 10A fuse, everything seems too work fine..the tail light and cluster worked right away with the 20A..i was told by my brother that it will work for a bit, but then later it will **** up all the fuses and the car will die...

don't know what's the problem that keeps making the 10A fuse blowing up everytime i put in a new one in, which is the correct average fuse rating for it. but the 20A fuse makes everything work, which is not the correct average rating fot it.

?Also, i did have the speaker in the back of the rear car, which is a 6x9 sony. the left side works but the right side rear speaker does'nt. so i connected a wired from the left speaker to the right speaker and it works now?

could that be the cost that keeps making the 10A fuse blowing up..or was told have a short circuit problem. idk?? anything will help.

honda civic dx 1995, swap d16y8 and a p28 ecu.??

 

Do you know how fuses work?

The 20A fuse works because it has a thicker piece of metal bridging the two contact points on the fuse in order to complete the circuit. The thicker piece of metal makes the fuse withstand more current, and as a result it also can withstand a short circuit better. There is a reason you should only need a 10A fuse, and that is because the amount of current that the circuit should have is less than the maximum amount of current that a 10A fuse can withstand. If the 10A fuse blows, then there is more current in the circuit than it is designed to have, meaning that, in most cases, there is a short circuit somewhere. The reason a fuse blows is because there is an electrical problem, and is designed to blow under this circumstance in order to prevent something such as an electrical fire and/or melting wires. Upping the fuse to 20A is not a solution, and it's not even a band aid... you are only removing the failsafe from the system and risking a fire, because there is definitely a reason that the 10A fuse isn't holding up. Honda doesn't randomly pick fuse ratings for electrical systems... the ratings are important.


The speaker has nothing to do with your problem. It's on a different circuit.

You just need to find where the system is short circuiting. Look for related wires that may be damaged. If you don't find any... I'm not really sure what your next step would be. Someone can help you troubleshoot, hopefully RonJ will see this thread and post in it.