Hey guys,

So a while back I took my car to Honda and had them do a service on it, I do most of them myself, but this was the 60k service so I did the plugs and stuff myself but I wanted them to check it over and I had them replace the drain plug because the head was getting stripped off. Ever since I got it back when I change the oil, its been really easy to get the drain plug out and it was always a PITA... I have also noticed that there is usually a drip of oil coming from the plug whenever I get under there now too. On Wednesday I was working on my car, and when I went to put the drain plug back in, it got tight and then loose again like I stripped the threads out. [sm=oopssign.gif] I wasn't even using that much force to tighten it. I've been trying not to tighten it as much because it was so diffuicult to get off before. Well, I got it tight enough that it wont come off by hand so its ok for now, but I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions as to if I should replace the pan or if there is something else I can do... I dont really have the $ to buy a new pan but I guess thats better than having to buy a new engine... For now I'm just going to have to keep checking the oil and making sure that its not low, because when I checked this morning, there was a little oil under the plug... ugh,was hoping to be done w/ repairs for a while but guess not lol. Ok, well thanks in advance for your advice guys, I appreciate it.

- Craig

 

You can use a kit where you'd retap the hole and put an oversized plug in. Sometimes just trying a new plug will give you a little more grip if the threads on the plug are damaged too. Use a metal/rubber gasket and replace it once in a while so you don't have to overtighten the plug.

 

What kind of pan do you have? If its steel then its worth the upgrade to an alum. one. What engine are you running?

 

How is aluminum better than steel? Just take the pan off (so you don't get any metal shavings in your oil)then use a tap and dye set to redo the threads, you might have to get a new plug if you damaged the one you have.

 

right on mobsta, but still how can you claim that alum, is better then steel?

 

Alum. rids the heat faster keeping your oil cooler.

 

Your not gonna see a difference in between the two.

 

If Honda does their plugs like GM, the plug is made of a softer metal than the pan. This is so the plug will strip before the pan. Next time you have the plug out, check the threads on the pan. If they look good, try a new plug. My previous two Chevy trucks needed new plugs every 2-3 years cause GM's policy is to tighten the crap out of the plug (at least thats what they told me when I questioned why the plug was so tight). Guess they would rather charge me $4 for a new plug than deal with customers complaining about loose plugs or leaks.

Be careful with the oversized plugs if you go that route. Most of those are self tapping and cut every time you tighten them. Eventually, the new threads in the pan will strip. You can buy a second bigger plug, but when that one strips the pan, you're done. NAPA used to sell (like 15 years ago) a rubber plug that inserted into the drain hole. You stretched it with an included tool to insert it in the drain, and when the tool was removed, the plug expanded and sealed around the hole. I used these on the beater I had in college. They never leaked, but after repeated removal, the tool can tear the plug. Always have a spare handy. I never had one tear, I replaced them after a few changes. I'd rather pay the $5 than have the thing leak oil cause I did not know it had a hole in it.

Finally, I'm curious why you had a hard time removing the plug. Unless things have changed (or you're a GM dealer), the plug should be hand tight plus a quarter turn. This will insure that you are not straining the threads. I never had a plug leak or wear out using that rule, and the plugs were always easy to remove. Maybe things have changed. Once you get old, work too much, and live life through your kids, its easier to drop the car at the dealer (especially when the dealer does a full service change for $13.33). The local Honda dealers are considerably more expensive, so I may start doing oil changes again.

 

I had the plug replaced not 6 months ago because the head was getting stripped off and I didnt want to deal with it getting totally stripped out so I had it changed when they were doing another service. Im going to call them tomorrow and see what they suggest, i had a piece of cardboard under it this weekend while I was in Buffalo, and its definately leaking out of the plug, and I can see a drip coming out of it, so Im not going to drive it until I can figure out a way to fix it. Im not sure why it was so hard to get out, but I remember having to put my feet against the other tire for leverage so I could get it off. Idk, Im going to call the dealer tomorrow and see what they think. Maybe they can drill it out and re tap it. I dont have a dye kit or the time to do it this week with all the school work I have, otherwise I would definately do it myself... Ill let you guys know what happens when I call them tomorrow. Thanks

- Craig

 

Tap and Die set?If you dont have one, then youve gotta go buy one, then buy a new drain plug and blah blah. Check ebay, craigslist and all the honda forums classifieds. A used D16 oil pan shouldnt cost you over 20$.