Pulled off the driver side rear brake caliper on my '95 coupe and found the pads needing a change.

Got some new pads to stick in there, but I can't get the piston to push back into the caliper to afford clearance for the new pads.. Even used my brake caliper-piston tool to force the piston back in, but it won't budge.

Finally decided to open the system, put a tube on the bleeder nipple, and fed it into a jar of fluid. Opened the bleeder and tried again, thinking that the release of fluid pressure would release the piston.

No dice.

The caliper does work...I spun the wheel and hit the brakes and it stopped spinning. So I'm pretty sure the piston isn't stuck.

I'm wondering if I need to completely disengage/disconnect the emergency brake mechanism from the caliper to free the piston up.

Any advice?

Going to check the passenger side rear and see if I have the same issue right now.

Thanks,
Kurt
'95 EX Coupe

 

The tool that you need for the rear caliper is the one that you turn, not the one that simply pushes the caliper in. If you push the caliper in, you will ruin it. The second thing is that you have to take some fluid out of the Master Cylinder when you are pushing the piston in since it will build up pressure. You also have to do one side at a time.

 

and make sure that your ebrake isn't on...

 

Ahh, another tool I get to buy. The piston face has a cross pattern in it, which I'm assuming aids in the tool that turns the piston into the caliper cylinder.

Very unique.

Although removing fluid from the master cylinder is a new one to me...I had thought just opening the bleeder screw on the caliper would allow for enough pressure relief. Live and learn.

And I did / will make sure the e-brake is off.

Thanks for the heads up.

Kurt
'95 EX Coupe

 

You don't HAVE to buy the tool. You can rent it from an autoparts store like autozone. I would buy it if you planned to do a bunch of rear pads, otherwise i'd jus put down the deposit. I dunno about opening the bleeder screw, it might work. I take fluid out of the M.C. because when you open the bleeder screw air could enter the system and then you gotta bleed it. I was taught to jus put a rag or a napkin in the M.C. and suck up the fluid then push the caliper in and repeat for the other side. Remember, only one caliper should be off the car at a time otherwise the piston in the other caliper will fall out.

 

you can turn it back in with a pair of needlenose pliers. just spread them so that the tips go into the grooves, then turn them. but I got the tool that clips to the end of a socket for around $12 at sears. makes it WAY easier.

 

Picked up the tool for $6.99 at AutoZone. I looked at the steel cube thingy with different shaped nipples on it and scratched my head, not really sure what to do with it.

So, off to my local Pick-a-part to test it out.

Found an '89 Prelude that had rear disc brakes, so I used the tool on both of the real calipers to get a feel for how it worked. No problems.

Took it home, and had the pads changed in the rear of my Civic in about 15 minutes.

The right tool for the right job.

Thanks all for the input!

Now I have to fight the urge to go and pull the motor from the 'lude at the Pick-a-part. It was a complete setup -- but it looked to be a twin-cam motor. Did '89 Prelude's come with twin-cam powerplants?

Kurt
'95 EX Coupe

 

The prelude came with two motors, either a 2.0L SOHC or a 2.0L DOHC. I think that the DOHC that came with the prelude has pretty much no after market.

 

yeah, its the Honda Bastard child. stay away from it.

 

Wow, how sad. No wonder this motor has sat in that car for awhile in the Pick-a-part yard.

Kurt