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OH SH!T! HELP!

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  #11  
Old 11-12-2007 | 04:08 AM
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mxs
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Default RE: OH ****! HELP!

Sounds like you have oiling issues, that could cause the VTEC system to act up. Take a look at this page and see if it helps you narrow it down. I'm assuming you have access to better tools than most people, working at a service station.
 
  #12  
Old 11-12-2007 | 06:02 AM
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Default RE: OH ****! HELP!

ORIGINAL: mxs

Sounds like you have oiling issues, that could cause the VTEC system to act up. Take a look at this page and see if it helps you narrow it down. I'm assuming you have access to better tools than most people, working at a service station.
What page are you referring to?

and yes i do have access to pretty much everything i need, its awesome working at a service station
 
  #13  
Old 11-12-2007 | 06:13 AM
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Default RE: OH ****! HELP!

Maybe I should have pasted the link in there [8D]
http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm
http://remanufactured-engines.com/page5.htm
 
  #14  
Old 11-12-2007 | 07:31 PM
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Ok new update.

I had my dad call his buddy from a honda dealership (he is also in the automotive business [sells lifts, tire changers, wheel balancers, brake lathe's etc.]) and my dad explained the situation to him and he immediately asked how much oil there was. Apparently the VTEC solenoid turns off at a sign of low oil pressure to prevent more damage. This led me to now realize that my car burns about a quart every 1000 miles. Sucky news but w/e, it has almost 200,000, what do you expect. So i filled up the oil and the mechanic at the shop said i all i needed was to reset the ecu and everything should be great with more oil. Well he reset the ecu and no more CEL. The only problem is that it still makes a soft knocking noise when accelerating above 4000rpm and it is quite obvious that the vtec doesnt engage anymore (cannot feel the vtec transition and no more "boost" feeling when it does) pretty much i lost most of my power and no longer have vtec running.

Im taking my car to my dads buddy to get the timing belt, water pump, and idler replaced so i will have the honda dealership also look into the vtec but, any ideas on a quick fix to get the vtec working again? or and iput at all?

thanks again in advance!
 
  #15  
Old 11-12-2007 | 07:48 PM
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Default RE: OH ****! HELP!

Have them actually diagnose the noise before they replace all that stuff. If your bottom end is bad you probably want to know ASAP
 
  #16  
Old 11-13-2007 | 03:10 AM
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Default RE: OH ****! HELP!

ORIGINAL: mxs

Have them actually diagnose the noise before they replace all that stuff. If your bottom end is bad you probably want to know ASAP
Well what i ment by that is that we were going to replace all of that anyway. Like i said it has almost 200,000 on it and things need to be replaced. But, now that this has come up, when i take it to honda on friday to get all of that replaced, i will let them know about the vtec and see if they can find the noise/problem.
 
  #17  
Old 11-19-2007 | 06:11 PM
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UPDATE:

Ok soooo heres the deal.

I took the car to the honda dealership and told the guy that i assumed it was the vtec due to the knocking noise only audible when accelerating over 4000rpms. When i went to pick it up, he told me that the vtec is fine and that the engine was most likely knocking from a piston; he guessed it was a wrist-pin and that the damage would be more complicated than that. He then concluded that the repair costs would be worth more than the engine so he advised that I baby the car untill it dies and then deal with it then.

Well just my luck, on the highway while on my way home from school cruising in 5th at like 70mph the knocking noise starts to get worse. I wasn't sure what was going on but i had to get home and get to work so there wasnt much i could do. After getting off the high way, the noise was getting louder and louder, to the point that it was knocking while idleing at a red light. When i turned into my development, the engine made a loud squeal noise and shut off. I tried to turn it over and it sounded like someone was shaking around a metal box full of bolts. Now when i try to start it, it doesnt even turn over, everything just goes dim and nothing happens. I know the battery is good so i obviously F'ed something up real good.

Anyway, since i am low on cash and can't afford a b-series, ive decided just to replace the engine with another low mileage d16y8. Assuming that the tranny, ecu, wire harness, and mounts should all match up perfectly, along with exhaust and intake manifolds, i figure it should be a relatively easy swap.

Anyways, any opinions or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
 
  #18  
Old 11-19-2007 | 06:24 PM
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Default RE: OH ****! HELP!

Sounds like your engine has seized in the bottom end. It is easy to put another one of the same type in because everything will match up. Usually when you buy a used engine it will still have the manifolds and wire harness on it so you don't have to deal with removing and replacing them.
 
  #19  
Old 11-19-2007 | 06:28 PM
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Default RE: OH ****! HELP!

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Sounds like your engine has seized in the bottom end. It is easy to put another one of the same type in because everything will match up. Usually when you buy a used engine it will still have the manifolds and wire harness on it so you don't have to deal with removing and replacing them.
That's what I was hoping for.

Anyways, i've been looking around for a used d16y8 and hmotorsonline.com doesn't have many d-series but i did find this one on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-98...spagenameZWDVW

let me know if it looks like a good buy or a rip off.

I actually called the guy and he said that it has under 60,000 miles on it and that it does come with the valve cover and oil pan.

This will be my first "swap" so let me know anything you can about this engine or where to find a better one.

thanks again!
 
  #20  
Old 11-19-2007 | 06:40 PM
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Default RE: OH ****! HELP!

I don't think they did anything to it other than change the gaskets and seals and paint it real shiny. That is not a remanufactured engine! A remanufactured engine would have a valve job, new bearings, pistons, etc. It's basically a used engine and you should find one for less than $850.

Try to find one local to you so you don't incur high shipping costs to return it if it is defective.
 
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