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Just replaced radiator and thermostat

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Old 05-20-2009 | 09:11 PM
chasemclemore's Avatar
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From: Allen Tx
Default Just replaced radiator and thermostat

becuase my radiator was toast smelled coolant leaking and low and behold, the top seal on the radiator was fried, I want to make sure that I did this install right and everything is okay as I am about to go on a 400+ mile trip tomorrow night and dont want to get stranded. I drove the car 20+ miles and it did not overheat, actually it barely got warm. Both top and bottom hoses are hot to the touch. I was always told that when the car is warm then both top and bottom hoses will swell under pressure but I can squeeze both. Not for very long of course (HOT) there are no leaks in the system any where and tstat is facing the right way, also overflow is staying where it should be. All checks I know passed except for the squeeze test and was just wondering if that is a bs test. Please let me know asap! I really need the help guys!

Btw, my car used to rough idle, it would stay within the correct tach range but would idle rough, now its idling smooth. Just thought I would add that.
 
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Old 05-20-2009 | 09:21 PM
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Sounds good. Did you bleed the system?
 
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Old 05-20-2009 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RonJ
Sounds good. Did you bleed the system?
I let the car run until all the air bubbles stopped coming out of the radiator with the cap off... also till it started to level out over the overflow intake line and then capped it off. Please remind me how bleed the system just so I can be sure... also Ron is it normal for the cap to barely get warm?
 
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Old 05-20-2009 | 09:32 PM
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Everything sounds fine to me. During the bleed procedure, you normally turn the dash heater ****/lever to MAX heat to ensure that bubbles are not trapped in the heater core. You then idle the engine with the cap loose until the radiator fan turns ON twice. Then top off the radiator and reservoir and tighten the cap.
 
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Old 05-20-2009 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RonJ
Everything sounds fine to me. During the bleed procedure, you normally turn the dash heater ****/lever to MAX heat to ensure that bubbles are not trapped in the heater core. You then idle the engine with the cap loose until the radiator fan turns ON twice. Then top off the radiator and reservoir and tighten the cap.
All is well then, thanks again Ron for the help!
 
  #6  
Old 05-21-2009 | 12:25 AM
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Are the hoses in good condition? They should be stiff but not hard, and not soft enough to stretch.
 
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Old 05-21-2009 | 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by trustdestruction
Are the hoses in good condition? They should be stiff but not hard, and not soft enough to stretch.
They are stiff, and not soft enought to stretch...(thats what she said) sorry had to throw that in... they are fine... just drove my car 40 miles today, no issues!

Also would like to state to future readers that it was rediculously easy to install this radiator and thermostat... easiest one that I have ever done!
 
  #8  
Old 05-26-2009 | 07:41 AM
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For the record btw, note to all future readers:

The radiator for the 96-98 EX MT is the same radiator for the 96-98 AT... the only difference from the stock MT is that it has 2 bronze connectors at the bottom to cool ATF. You do not need to use these on the MT... just letting you guys know becuase I thought they gave me the wrong part but they didnt... coolant will NOT leak from those hookups as it is a seperate tank.
 
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