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I'm retarted... code reader help.

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  #21  
Old 11-11-2007, 03:34 PM
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Default RE: I'm retarted... code reader help.

ORIGINAL: Mr Mobsta Man

It is drawing power from the empty spot on the fuse box that is for constant power and just grounded to the chasis close to where it is hidden. Should I unplugg it and see if everything else works again?

Edit: My alarm has domelight supervision, could I have wired it backwards (positive wire from alarm to neg domelight and neg alarm wire to pos domelight) and that cause it?
Yes, test that you wired them with proper polarity.
 
  #22  
Old 11-11-2007, 03:36 PM
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Default RE: I'm retarted... code reader help.


ORIGINAL: Mr Mobsta Man

I could have damanged the light circuit, read my above edit... How do I test these ideas? (tracing the wire short or damaged circuit) I have a cheap multimeter.
Use your multimeter to test for continuity in the wire connecting fuse #43 and the ceiling dome light. No continuity would indicate a break somewhere in wire.
 
  #23  
Old 11-11-2007, 03:40 PM
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Default RE: I'm retarted... code reader help.

I'm gonna go ahead and ask another stupid question, how do I check it. I havn't used the multimeter before. Ground the black probe then put the red on the fuse/wire? What do it set the meter to?
 
  #24  
Old 11-11-2007, 03:48 PM
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Default RE: I'm retarted... code reader help.

Set multimeter to read resistance (Ohms). Test example: Touch two probes together and cause needle to jump (=little or no resistance or high continuity). For your ceiling light circuit, now touch one probe to end of fuse #43 and the other probe to the hot wire at the ceiling light. Proper continuity of wire means that needle will jump. No needle jump means no continuity or broken wire. Probe polarity is not important for this test.
 
  #25  
Old 11-11-2007, 03:58 PM
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Default RE: I'm retarted... code reader help.

ORIGINAL: RonJ

Set multimeter to read resistance (Ohms). Test example: Touch two probes together and cause needle to jump (=little or no resistance or continuity). For your ceiling light circuit, now touch one probe to end of fuse #43 and the other probe to the hot wire at the ceiling light. Proper continuity of wire means that needle will jump. No needle jump means no continuity or broken wire. Probe polarity is not important for this test.
I don't understand your last post at all. First you said that touching the probes together causes the needle to jump meaning little or no continuity then you say that if the needle jumps then there is proper continuity.
Also how am I supost to connect one probe to the fuse and the other probe to the wire near the domelight. One is in the engine bay and the other is inside the car. My meter wires are nowhere near that long.
 
  #26  
Old 11-11-2007, 04:20 PM
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Default RE: I'm retarted... code reader help.


ORIGINAL: Mr Mobsta Man

ORIGINAL: RonJ

Set multimeter to read resistance (Ohms). Test example: Touch two probes together and cause needle to jump (=little or no resistance or continuity). For your ceiling light circuit, now touch one probe to end of fuse #43 and the other probe to the hot wire at the ceiling light. Proper continuity of wire means that needle will jump. No needle jump means no continuity or broken wire. Probe polarity is not important for this test.
I don't understand your last post at all. First you said that touching the probes together causes the needle to jump meaning little or no continuity then you say that if the needle jumps then there is proper continuity.
Also how am I supost to connect one probe to the fuse and the other probe to the wire near the domelight. One is in the engine bay and the other is inside the car. My meter wires are nowhere near that long.
Sorry for the confusion.

Little or no resistance = high continuity. They are inversely related. Needle jumping = high continuity or low/no resistance.

You will need to use longer multimeter wires or rig a way to extend them.
 
  #27  
Old 11-11-2007, 04:34 PM
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Default RE: I'm retarted... code reader help.

ok I have extra wire I can use. So I plug one end in with the fuse and take the cover off of the domelight and hook the other probe what I think is the power wire and see if theneedle jumps? I can do this but I don't see how it helps really. My understanding would be it would show me that the wires that I hook up are conductive or not. lol Whether or not I understand it or not I will try it tomorrow and tell you what it does. thanks for all the help btw.
 
  #28  
Old 11-11-2007, 04:51 PM
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Default RE: I'm retarted... code reader help.

ORIGINAL: Mr Mobsta Man

ok I have extra wire I can use. So I plug one end in with the fuse and take the cover off of the domelight and hook the other probe what I think is the power wire and see if the needle jumps? I can do this but I don't see how it helps really. My understanding would be it would show me that the wires that I hook up are conductive or not. lol Whether or not I understand it or not I will try it tomorrow and tell you what it does. thanks for all the help btw.
You are correct -- the outcome of the test tells you whether or not the wire connecting fuse 43 to the ceiling light is broken.

Performing the test:
Important: Disconnect the car battery and remove fuse #43 before doing the continuity test to avoid shorting the circuit. Touch one probe to the fuse contact leading to the ceiling light and the other probe to one of the ceiling light wires. Try each of the two ceiling light wires individually. One should show continuity. If neither wire shows continuity, then there is a wire break somewhere between the fuse and the ceiling wire.
 
  #29  
Old 11-11-2007, 05:01 PM
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Default RE: I'm retarted... code reader help.

Ok I understand now, but do you know which fuse contact leads to the ceiling light or do I just have to try both sides? After I am done with that and it does show a break then how do I fix it, run a new wire? What about if it does not show a break?
 
  #30  
Old 11-11-2007, 05:06 PM
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Default RE: I'm retarted... code reader help.

ORIGINAL: Mr Mobsta Man

Ok I understand now, but do you know which fuse contact leads to the ceiling light or do I just have to try both sides? After I am done with that and it does show a break then how do I fix it, run a new wire? What about if it does not show a break?

That's a good point about the fuse contact. If it's not obvious, try both sides as you mentioned.

If the test indicates the wire is broken, then the work begins. Theoretically, you must trace the wire from end to end; however, the information you have provided implies that the break will be found somewhere between fuse #43 and where the wire branches to either the DLC, ceiling light, and trunk light. Therefore, the broken wire would likely be found somewhere under the dash.

If the fuse #43 wire shows continuity, which I think is unlikely, then the next step will be to test ground wires in this circuit.
 


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