Idle and Hesitation problem
#1
05-27-2009, 03:29 PM
Idle and Hesitation problem
hi....ive had a million and one problems trying to post on here.....
anyways now that i got it...
i have a 2000 honda civic ex (d16y8)
i have extremely low idle its right above the line above zero after warmed up...while at a stop light its a little above but it varies for both....once in a blue moon it idles where it supposed to (like 3 times since i have had the car since january)
so i havent tried it yet do you think it could be my grounds?
the previous owner put on heavy duty ground wires...and sometimes when my music is on the lights pulse so thats what im thinking even thought they seem steady could that be it?
i cannot find the IACV on the back of the throttle body...ill take pics to see if someone can find it
also.....
my car will hesitate to shift..(cars is auto)
it happens at 2000 rpms and it sounds like its trying to get gas or move but it wont and then it will when i step on the gas. i did a tuneup (wires rotor cap plugs and fuel filter) i just purchased an oem fuel pump....any suggestions
id appreciate anyones help and thanks for reading
anyways now that i got it...
i have a 2000 honda civic ex (d16y8)
i have extremely low idle its right above the line above zero after warmed up...while at a stop light its a little above but it varies for both....once in a blue moon it idles where it supposed to (like 3 times since i have had the car since january)
so i havent tried it yet do you think it could be my grounds?
the previous owner put on heavy duty ground wires...and sometimes when my music is on the lights pulse so thats what im thinking even thought they seem steady could that be it?
i cannot find the IACV on the back of the throttle body...ill take pics to see if someone can find it
also.....
my car will hesitate to shift..(cars is auto)
it happens at 2000 rpms and it sounds like its trying to get gas or move but it wont and then it will when i step on the gas. i did a tuneup (wires rotor cap plugs and fuel filter) i just purchased an oem fuel pump....any suggestions
id appreciate anyones help and thanks for reading
#3
05-28-2009, 01:54 PM
Is the CEL ON?
For the low idle, try cleaning the IACV (see below and click IACV link in my signature).
The hesitation problem could be a normal symptom of having the Civic automatic transmission, which appears to have come bad right out of the box. Try an AT to MT swap. Otherwise, drain the tranny fluid and replace with Honda or Honda-recommended ATF. Also check your ignition timing.
For the low idle, try cleaning the IACV (see below and click IACV link in my signature).
The hesitation problem could be a normal symptom of having the Civic automatic transmission, which appears to have come bad right out of the box. Try an AT to MT swap. Otherwise, drain the tranny fluid and replace with Honda or Honda-recommended ATF. Also check your ignition timing.
Last edited by RonJ; 05-28-2009 at 01:58 PM.
#4
05-28-2009, 02:47 PM
no the check engine light is not on...
is it possible the iacv is a light green color and it has two screws inside it? rather then bolts? also the hesitation is annoying and its def. not the transmission because it wasn't always doing it, just started mid February. The hesitation usually happens when i don't warm my car up... it happens like probably like 3 times a week on top of the normal when warmed. it really sounds like its not getting enough gas or something... im gonna try the iacv valve and put the fuel pump in when i get it..ill let you guys know the outcome
is it possible the iacv is a light green color and it has two screws inside it? rather then bolts? also the hesitation is annoying and its def. not the transmission because it wasn't always doing it, just started mid February. The hesitation usually happens when i don't warm my car up... it happens like probably like 3 times a week on top of the normal when warmed. it really sounds like its not getting enough gas or something... im gonna try the iacv valve and put the fuel pump in when i get it..ill let you guys know the outcome
#5
05-29-2009, 09:47 AM
Your IACV has four bolts on them, 8mm if I remember correctly. Easiest way to do this is to take the throttle body off and unclip the electrical connections as well as the two coolant hoses that run through the IACV. Then take the IACV off and clean it out.
One often overlooked part of this procedure is the throttle body itself. The IACV itself only has a partial control over the idle, a small passage through the throttle body itself is what controls actual idle speed. If this is clogged (which it most probably is if your IACV which as larger passages is also dirty) then you'll have consistent idle problems. Make sure you use a throttle body cleaner and not a carburetor cleaner as throttle bodies often have delicate coatings.
This is a common consequence of running a cold air intake. Those oiled filters can create residue which traps dust and allows it to build up as grime in your throttle body which has a ton of tiny little air passages in it.
I cleaned mine out and the problem has greatly improved, although I don't think its solved completely. The idle is quite a bit better most of the time (you'll see a door in the IACV when you take it apart, I believe that is still getting stuck sometimes) but the hesitation is still there and noticeable, especially when allowing the transmission to shift automatically to a lower gear when passing.
Good luck-
K
One often overlooked part of this procedure is the throttle body itself. The IACV itself only has a partial control over the idle, a small passage through the throttle body itself is what controls actual idle speed. If this is clogged (which it most probably is if your IACV which as larger passages is also dirty) then you'll have consistent idle problems. Make sure you use a throttle body cleaner and not a carburetor cleaner as throttle bodies often have delicate coatings.
This is a common consequence of running a cold air intake. Those oiled filters can create residue which traps dust and allows it to build up as grime in your throttle body which has a ton of tiny little air passages in it.
I cleaned mine out and the problem has greatly improved, although I don't think its solved completely. The idle is quite a bit better most of the time (you'll see a door in the IACV when you take it apart, I believe that is still getting stuck sometimes) but the hesitation is still there and noticeable, especially when allowing the transmission to shift automatically to a lower gear when passing.
Good luck-
K
#6
05-29-2009, 09:48 AM
no the check engine light is not on...
is it possible the iacv is a light green color and it has two screws inside it? rather then bolts? also the hesitation is annoying and its def. not the transmission because it wasn't always doing it, just started mid February. The hesitation usually happens when i don't warm my car up... it happens like probably like 3 times a week on top of the normal when warmed. it really sounds like its not getting enough gas or something... im gonna try the iacv valve and put the fuel pump in when i get it..ill let you guys know the outcome
is it possible the iacv is a light green color and it has two screws inside it? rather then bolts? also the hesitation is annoying and its def. not the transmission because it wasn't always doing it, just started mid February. The hesitation usually happens when i don't warm my car up... it happens like probably like 3 times a week on top of the normal when warmed. it really sounds like its not getting enough gas or something... im gonna try the iacv valve and put the fuel pump in when i get it..ill let you guys know the outcome
The diagram should help you identify the IACV. It is attached to two coolant lines and an electrical connector.
Check the ignition timing and measure the voltage across the battery connectors with the engine running and all electrical components turned ON.
#7
05-29-2009, 01:09 PM
Your IACV has four bolts on them, 8mm if I remember correctly. Easiest way to do this is to take the throttle body off and unclip the electrical connections as well as the two coolant hoses that run through the IACV. Then take the IACV off and clean it out.
One often overlooked part of this procedure is the throttle body itself. The IACV itself only has a partial control over the idle, a small passage through the throttle body itself is what controls actual idle speed. If this is clogged (which it most probably is if your IACV which as larger passages is also dirty) then you'll have consistent idle problems. Make sure you use a throttle body cleaner and not a carburetor cleaner as throttle bodies often have delicate coatings.
This is a common consequence of running a cold air intake. Those oiled filters can create residue which traps dust and allows it to build up as grime in your throttle body which has a ton of tiny little air passages in it.
I cleaned mine out and the problem has greatly improved, although I don't think its solved completely. The idle is quite a bit better most of the time (you'll see a door in the IACV when you take it apart, I believe that is still getting stuck sometimes) but the hesitation is still there and noticeable, especially when allowing the transmission to shift automatically to a lower gear when passing.
Good luck-
K
One often overlooked part of this procedure is the throttle body itself. The IACV itself only has a partial control over the idle, a small passage through the throttle body itself is what controls actual idle speed. If this is clogged (which it most probably is if your IACV which as larger passages is also dirty) then you'll have consistent idle problems. Make sure you use a throttle body cleaner and not a carburetor cleaner as throttle bodies often have delicate coatings.
This is a common consequence of running a cold air intake. Those oiled filters can create residue which traps dust and allows it to build up as grime in your throttle body which has a ton of tiny little air passages in it.
I cleaned mine out and the problem has greatly improved, although I don't think its solved completely. The idle is quite a bit better most of the time (you'll see a door in the IACV when you take it apart, I believe that is still getting stuck sometimes) but the hesitation is still there and noticeable, especially when allowing the transmission to shift automatically to a lower gear when passing.
Good luck-
K
RONJ,
im not sure if the check engine light works lol...i guess thats kinda a good thing and a bad thing...is there a way to check?
im gonna check the voltages tommorow...ignition timing is gonna have to wait since i dont have the money for the timing gun.
i will keep you updated.
thanks guys
#8
05-29-2009, 02:13 PM
Turn the key to ON(II). The CEL should illuminate for 2 seconds and then turn off if no codes are set. If the CEL never lights, then it doesn't work.
You may be able to rent a timing gun from an auto parts store for free.
You may be able to rent a timing gun from an auto parts store for free.
#9
05-30-2009, 05:41 AM
yeah im def gonna do that...i appreciate it sooo much....tommorow my friend is gonna help me, since im not mechanically inclined. did you have the same problem?
RONJ,
im not sure if the check engine light works lol...i guess thats kinda a good thing and a bad thing...is there a way to check?
im gonna check the voltages tommorow...ignition timing is gonna have to wait since i dont have the money for the timing gun.
i will keep you updated.
thanks guys
RONJ,
im not sure if the check engine light works lol...i guess thats kinda a good thing and a bad thing...is there a way to check?
im gonna check the voltages tommorow...ignition timing is gonna have to wait since i dont have the money for the timing gun.
i will keep you updated.
thanks guys
Just be sure not to gouge anything on the throttle body when you take it off as you could cause a sealing problem. Get a new gasket, and if you have a cold air intake, get rid of it!
This is a pretty simple project, you should be fine: Remove your rubber intake hose to the throttle body, pull all the electrical clips off the throttle body and the IACV. Unclip the throttle cable and be careful not to let the spring recoil sending parts flying. Unbolt the throttle body, separate it and carefully unclip the two coolant hoses that go to the IACV. Only things you'll need are a new gasket and some throttle body cleaner.
K
#10
05-30-2009, 05:08 PM
update...
today my friend and I took a look at it...because my cars auto i was looking at it totally wrong. after we realized what we had to do, we decided it wasn't worth it (he had stuff to do) ...we got frustrated and just put everything back, we didnt get the iacv off. after putting everything back i got a cel for the iacv...so i went home and called my mechanic...lol...told you im not mechanically inclined. he said hes gonna inspect it clean it out and see how it goes if it doesn't work then he told me to get another one and he'll put it in (most likely free). Hes also gonna do check the timing, do a valve lash, put in a new power steering pump, and an oil pan, all of which i have the parts for. soo basicallly hes gonna do everything i need done to my car and i dont have to worry about it....again ill keep you updated.
thanks
today my friend and I took a look at it...because my cars auto i was looking at it totally wrong. after we realized what we had to do, we decided it wasn't worth it (he had stuff to do) ...we got frustrated and just put everything back, we didnt get the iacv off. after putting everything back i got a cel for the iacv...so i went home and called my mechanic...lol...told you im not mechanically inclined. he said hes gonna inspect it clean it out and see how it goes if it doesn't work then he told me to get another one and he'll put it in (most likely free). Hes also gonna do check the timing, do a valve lash, put in a new power steering pump, and an oil pan, all of which i have the parts for. soo basicallly hes gonna do everything i need done to my car and i dont have to worry about it....again ill keep you updated.
thanks
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