easiest way to time is to put the up arrow on cam of coarse up and on the crank there is a little square key that holds pulley put it straight up. and make sure cylinder 1 is up so ur not 180 degrees off. ive done alot of 88-91 timing jobs.

 

Well if i were 180 degrees off it wouldn't even fire. I believe the most you can be off without having firing issues is like 12 degrees. She cranks every time with the key, so I shouldn't be that far off. Camshaft pully marks are "UP" and "LEVEL" with the head, the rotor button metal prong is facing the #1 cylinder, and I have the middle of the three crankshaft marks lined up with the timing cover mark, which should beTDC on the #1 cylinder, right?

 

Yeah, the middle one (see picture).


[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/EA7CB0CF14E04F2E8CC6CE6269752B10.jpg[/IMG]

 

Okay, so I know my timing is right now, why am I dumping so much fuel in LOW RPM??? Or, why is it not burning it properly if it's the right amount of fuel? I'm going to check the gap on the plugs. I have to go to Autozone to pick up a gapper so I can check em. Back in a flash with an update.

 

The additional distributor information in these pictures may or may not help. Checking the plug gap seems like a reasonable idea.

[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/FF04B01DB3B04571825233A38F134152.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/7C7D61006D034E11B65C85F565B6B4C6.jpg[/IMG]

 

Is it safe to assume that (1) the CEL works and is not ON and (2) the ECU is not blinking a code when the ignition key is turned to the ON position? Also, does your new engine match with your old ECU?

If you ultimately determine that the ignition system is fine, then next you may want to consider that problems with the fuel system (e.g., fuel injectors, pressure regulator, bad gas) are causing your engine to misfire (see picture).

[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/19D304774CF3401397C46522DFBDE6DE.jpg[/IMG]

 

The japanese motor guy said the ECU should be fine. I'm thinking the pressure regulator too also. The car sputtered like this the first time I put a head gasket on. The fuel regulator is attached to the same intake as before... I think this may be the culprit. It didnt sputter as bad before the engine replacement, but I'm thinking now that the motor has full compression (no blown rings), it might be sputtering worse because theres nowhere for the unburned gas to go. I still havent checked the gap on the plugs yet, don't have the $2 to get the gapper :/ --- It drives like a champ otherwise. 2nd through 5th is butter and good pull with no smoking. Got a nasty exhaust leak I need to fix, it sounds like a lawn mower. I couldnt get the old rusty bolts back in the exhaust mnfld. (i only got one in) ... Going to buy a new mani and get some new pipes welded back for clean sounding gas mileage power, yea baby!

Have no hood on the car and its getting nippy here in Georgia, so she's getting blasted with cold air right now, ehehe..

 

could u asume that the o2 sensor isn't getting the correct reading. the o2 sensor is what tells ecu if engine is runing lean or rich.

 

I think 94civichatchback makes an excellent point.

 

The 02 sensorwould probably be pretty nasty... It's from the old motor and again, it was in a nasty oil/water/fuel burning episode... I'll replaceit as soon as possible. I'll probably do it when I get the new exhaust system in a few weeks. I'll be hooking this thing up come tax season also... Paint job and such once I get the motor worked out.