Hello guys, Well. I got the car from my gf when she got her new car. It wasnt starting up, so I replaced the distrubuter cap and it started right up. Then I just replaced the thermostat, and the thermostat housing and now it's doing something it has never done before.

It will start up fine, but when it gets to just about operating temp it will start steadily smoking near the front of the engine, and the idle will drop and rise from like 1.5k to .5k to where the car sounds like it's going to stall. There is not specific location the smoke it coming from, just close to the exhaust manifold.
It's never done this before.

Other information:

I checked the oil today and it was completely dry, I filled the oil and tried and it's doing the same thing. Also there is a problem with the power-steering pump loosing fluid, but I don't know where it's leaking from.

1999 Honda Civic LX 4 Dr Automatic.


Thanks for any help.

 

As I read other posts/threads, rpm issue could be due to air in the cooling system thar needs to be bled out.

The smoke may go away once the car is good and running. Make sure there is no oil leaking onto the exhaust manifold.

You could try using Lucas Stop Leak for power steering fluid loss. I have is in my car and is working so far. The product is compatible with Honda. I had called Lucas and confirmed it myself.

 

The integral manifold/cat converters on the non-EX models tend to crack. Check by having someone block the tailpipe while the engine idles; look for an increase in smoke and a hissing sound from the manifold where exhaust leaks out.

 

I would bleed out the coolent but there is no bleed screw on my car =\

When I popped the hood today the P/S was like 1/8 Full, and I PUT the lucus stopleak, and after running it for 10 minutes, it went back down by half. (Could be it sucked it in, after not having any for so long)


I think it sounds like 2 seprate problems, but they start happening right as soon as the engine gets hot, and they seem to worsen so I shut off the car.


And also you are correct, The manifold is cracked in the middle, but the smoke isnt coming from there I don't believe. And I don't think it would make the car run like that, or only start smoking after the car was running for 3-5 mins. It doesn't smell like it either, it smells like something is burning.

Btw, It's White smoke.


Thanks for writing back =]

 

Lucas stuff will take some time to be effective. Or, the leak is more than the stuff can handle and parts are in need of replacing.

Make sure the smoke you see is not steam, ie leaking coolant????

 

To get air out of the cooling system, run the engine with the radiator cap off and pour coolant into the radiator as needed to keep it full. Start from a cold start. The car needs to be parked on a level surface or facing uphill so the radiator is the highest point. Turn the heater dial to full hot during the procedure too. As the engine warms up the radiator should start to overflow. Once that happens, put the cap on and leave it. Make sure there is coolant in the plastic tank then test drive until fully warmed up. Park level or uphill again and allow to cool off fully then open the radiator and check that it is still full.

Usually the P/S leaks at the end seals of the rack, the rack must be replaced. You could though just remove the belt to disable the pump and drive without power steering.

Car can run badly with cracked manifold due to air leaking into crack causing false readings from the oxygen sensor.

 

^I'm in the same boat with the cracked manifold. No smoke, but bad readings from the O2 sensor.

Is your check engine light on, by any chance? Does it turn on for a few seconds when you first start the car, then go away?

 

Yep, the CE light is on and last I checked at Auto Zone, they said it was a Faulty 02 Sensor.



See I would try following that procedure to bleed it, but as soon as the engine gets hot 3-5 mins, it starts doing that, and the smoke smells like something is wrong, plus the car sounds like it's dying =\ lol


I'm gonna pull of the Exhaust Manifold cover, and try the bleed method mentioned again.


Thanks for all the replys =]

 

UPDATE:

I bled the cooling system.
The smoke wasn't that bad, maybe im exagerating because the car sounds like it's dying.


I think this could help someone diagnose my problem :

The RPM my car idles at in P and N is 1750k, and 1k in Drive, Reverse ect.

When the car is at operating temp, the car starts to rev or jump. from 1700-1800 over and over, but when putting it in a Drive mode, the RPM goes down to 1k and doesn't jump.

Any ideas?

When trying to get my car to run the 1st time, I unbolted the 3 bolts holding the ALT and turned it in both directions, should I unbold it again and see if moving it clockwise, or CC will get the idle down? Or if you know the specific directions to Retard, and Advance. . Thanks

 

It is likely the unit you turned is not ALT (alternator). It must be "Dizzy" (distributor).

The distributor is set at specific angle of crankshaft BTDC (before top dead center). You need to follow procedures set by the manufacture, referencing the service manual specific for your engine, using proper tools.