I was driving up a pretty steep incline, and downshifted from 2nd to 1st to give me some power to get up the hill. I didn't give it enough gas, and it stalled on me. No big deal, I thought - until I restarted the car and the only dash light to not go off after starting was the Check Engine.

I can't for the life of me figure it out.

I've got a 98 LX.

Not sure if this is related or if I am just noticing because I am paranoid now, but it seems like it is idling at a lower RPM now, to the point where I feel like it's going to stall at idle (it hasn't yet).

Any help would be much appreciated!

 

And yes, I am going to Autozone to get the codes pulled, I just wanted to know if anyone had any advice or opinions.

Thanks!

 

Make sure you ask whomever is checking the car to tell you exactly what the scanner reads, not what they think the code means. If it doesn't make sense, then post away.

 

Yeah, get the actual code and post it. Those guys at AutoZone are not diagnostic or driveability techs.

 

Tell them to tell you the CODE. Not the description, not what they think is broken, just the code. Don't buy what they tell you is broken cause there is no way they can toll from just the code, if they do then they are either lying or don't know thier stuff. Post the code on here if you can't make heads or tails of it and some1 will be able to help. If the code starts with P1XXX then write down the description since this is a manufacture specific code and can sometimes be hard to find good descriptions.

 

Alright, it's a P0108: MAP / BARO - Circuit High Input.

 

P0108 means that the input on the MAP sensor is high, there is a low vacuum. You might want to hook up a vacuum guage to the Intake Manifold and check the vacuum at idle.

 

Did autozone clear the code for you? If they did and the light hasn't turned back on, try driving up that same hill (without stalling) and see what happens. If the light has remained off, and was never on prior, I would say you are probably safe. It's possible the computer didn't like the abnormal feedback it got from stalling the car in a situation like that and couldn't make sense of the sensor readings. For example, a wierd vacuum reading at a certain engine speed and throttle opening. But hooking a vacuum gauge is still a good idea, if nothing else to see how your engine is doing mechanically.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I cleared the code at Autozone, and it hasn't come back on after a couple days, even in the same conditions.