Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat If you've got a problem you just can't figure out, a noise you can't diagnose, or a check engine light that won't go away, ask about it here!

Help!!!: 2004 Honda Civic Alarm Issue, Won't Start, Battery

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 08-27-2014 | 06:21 PM
Josh Berger's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 4
Default Help!!!: 2004 Honda Civic Alarm Issue, Won't Start, Battery

Hey I was wondering if anyone could help me. I have a 2004 Honda Civic that ran fine with no signs of the battery dying. But one day I went to go start it like normal and it made a fast clicking sound. So I got my brother to jump me and I ran it for awhile till I thought the battery was charged enough. So I shut the car off and then tried to restart it but the battery was dead.
That's when the cars alarm system started honking and flashing lights at me. So I unplugged the battery. The next day I bought a new battery and replaced it. Once I connected the battery the cars horn was on full blast and there was no power to the car. My car won't even start now. I have no radio, lights(except for the back light),... power to the car. I've tried nearly every possible way to reset my alarm. I do not have a key FOB and my locks are not electric.
The alarm system I pulled out is a Code Alarm. I don't know if that's factory or after factory.
Things to note: I did replace my ignition because the original key jammed so I have a new key to start the car.
Also, the driver doors lock is jammed as well. So the only way to unlock the car is through the passengers side.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 08-27-2014 | 08:32 PM
itburnswhenIP's Avatar
HCF Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 722
Default

your car is equipped with an ignition imobilizer system when you replaced the ignition did have the new keys re-programmed to the ECU at the dealers ???
 
  #3  
Old 08-28-2014 | 06:56 AM
mk378's Avatar
Recognized HCF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,023
Default

When you pull out an aftermarket alarm you have to be sure to re-splice any cut wires back to stock. I thought that they all had some sort of factory alarm as well.

Like the other guy said, there is an RFID chip molded into the plastic head of the key that has to match the code programmed into the ECU for the ECU to allow the car to run. I think though that the car will crank but not start if the immobilizer is active. There is also a third-party device that bypasses this system and simulates having the original key so the car will start with any key.
 
  #4  
Old 08-28-2014 | 11:40 AM
Josh Berger's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 4
Default

Thanks for the help guys but I think the problem may be a simple error. As an update I noticed that my battery fuse was blown. So I replaced the 80A fuse and that blew as well. Upon further checking I noticed that the store sold me the wrong battery. Positive and negative posts are on the wrong size. I should of noticed this but didn't. I will keep you updated when I reinstall the new battery and fuse.

(Also to answer the question. Yes I did have the new keys reprogrammed with a locksmith. The car wouldn't start with the new ignition if I didn't.)
 
  #5  
Old 08-28-2014 | 06:45 PM
mk378's Avatar
Recognized HCF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,023
Default

Ouch! Battery hooked up backwards can cause a lot of damage. Hopefully it didn't and just blew the fuse.

Your alternator is probably bad anyway as the source of the original problem. When you get the car started, measure the voltage at the battery, it should be 13.5 volts or more. If it is in the 12 volt range, the car is not charging the battery properly and it is going to run down and die again.
 

Last edited by mk378; 08-28-2014 at 06:48 PM.
  #6  
Old 08-29-2014 | 08:28 PM
Josh Berger's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 4
Default

Thankfully all is well. The car started right up. I'm going to borrow a multimeter from a friend to test voltage.

Now the only problem is that the alarm seems to be going off. I took the horn fuse out so that my horn wouldn't honk. But the lights are flashing. They will shut of when I start the car. Every time I open the doors, hood, trunk the alarm seems to be going off.
 
  #7  
Old 08-30-2014 | 07:08 AM
mk378's Avatar
Recognized HCF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,023
Default

I think the factory alarm is reset by opening the driver's door with the key. Which is a problem on your car...
 
  #8  
Old 09-11-2014 | 06:40 PM
Josh Berger's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 4
Default

Thanks for all the help. I have been meaning to get on here and reply. But moving and no internet for awhile has postponed me.
I got the alarm to shut off. All I had to do was reset the radio anti theft code. I got the code online, entered it into the radio, and it shut off the alarm. Car is running perfectly.
Thanks for the help and ideas.
 
  #9  
Old 02-18-2022 | 05:30 AM
Mychell's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 2
Default

I, am from brazil,I have the same problem with my 2004 honda civic, after the battery died, I activated the alarms, no power to complete the door locks, the alarm stuck with the lights on and the horn honking non-stop.... The car too it wouldn't start, I removed the negative battery cable and removed the horn fuse, the other day I bought another battery for the car, and it started working again...
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mudhenFUF
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
8
01-16-2023 09:43 PM
dkd
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
6
11-30-2020 08:38 PM
111jag
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
0
03-15-2011 08:35 PM
dschweers
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
3
01-31-2011 02:59 PM
Memorex
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
2
01-09-2011 09:11 PM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:54 AM.