I posted a comparable message couple of weeks ago but did not receive much help so I thought a new title might get more attention.

So, again, I have a 1999 Acura EL (which is a Canadian version of a fancy Civic 4 door) with a D16Y8 SOHC V-tec motor. The car has 238,000 kilometers on the clock (about 150,000 miles). I have owned it a year and put about 20,000 kilometers on it.

Primary symptoms - 1.) lack of power 2.) pinging and jerking under heavy load when RPM's are below 3000RPM. It is SO gutless that I have to gear down on even the slightest upgrades to maintain highway speed. If you shift into second gear to go around a corner the car jerks fairly violently several times as you accelerate out of the corner. It pings constantly under load. Sometimes when you step on the gas (to the floor) you can't even feel and change in the speed. It is just such a PIG. Having said that - it always starts and has NEVER let me down in the year I have owned it. It consumes about 1 liter of oil per 3000 kilometers (a quart in 1800 miles). I THINK that the car MIGHT run a little wee bit better when it is cold. I am not really sure though.

I have tried a LOT of stuff ... please read on ...

compression; (taken with all four plugs OUT and wide open throttle)
cylinder 1 - first stroke 100 psi to a maximum of 175 psi.
cylinder 2 - first stroke 95 psi to a maximum of 165 psi
cylinder 3 - first stroke 95 psi to a maximum of 165 psi
cylinder 4 - first stroke 100 psi to a maximum of 175 psi

NEW parts include ...

spark plugs (I have actually tried three different types - ALL NGK)
spark plug wires (NGK)
distributor cap and rotor and even the coil - I even tried a used distributor
then I changed the entire distributor for a complete brand new one.
air filter
gas filter
oxygen sensors - BOTH of them (I used NTK brand)
PCV valve
Timing belt - It was almost new but I had to check that it was installed in the correct alignment and that the crankshaft pulley was keyed in the keyway correctly. It was.

Some USED parts
I have 3 ECU's (all with the same numbers) One from a wrecker, the other from a known good car. No difference.
I have swapped all four injectors (from a known good car).
I swapped the fuel pressure regulator (also from a known good car).
I checked the ignition timing - using an inductive pick up timing gun as per the civic shop manual I downloaded (with a jumper as required).
I set the lifters (not that they even needed it).
I visually inspected the fuel line from the tank looking for any damage or restrictions (none)
I have tried fuel injector cleaners.

YES - of course I bought a new knock sensor. Of interest the ECU threw a code almost immediately after I put it in. That KS was an aftermarket brand (NOT genuine Honda). I returned that KS right away - as a faulty part - and got another KS from a different supplier (so it was a DIFFERENT brand). EXACTLY the same results. I tried ALL 3 ECU's with both knock sensors (genuine and jobber). I ALWAYS got a code with the non genuine sensor and never got a code with the genuine part. I checked the wire from the KS to the ECU (according to the manual). The wire is NOT grounding and IS fully conductive. Connections on both ends are clean and seem tight enough.

My car HAS a problem and I really do NOT know what it is. If I can't solve the mystery - I am planning to sell the car next spring. Even though Vancouver winters are mild - I'll tolerate the PIG long enough to get one last winter out of it. Maybe I should put a lipstick target on it and hope someone hits it this winter and it gets written off???

I am pretty sure that I sacked the input shaft bearing on my transmission from the constant HIGH revving. I swapped a JDM T/M (not a v-tec one though) into the car and did the clutch while I had it all apart. Shifts nice and smooth - and it is nice and quiet. I assume it is only a matter of time before this bearing goes as well. It'll likely last until the spring 'fire' sale.

Thanks to ANYONE.

 

I don't suppose you tried seafoam?

 

Did you check the ignition timing with a strobe light as the way it is prescribed in the service manual?

 

Suggestion to try to clean the cylinders with Seafoam is a good one. Carbon buildup will cause knocking / pinging.

Would be good to check fuel pressure with a gauge. Vacuum line must be connected to regulator, and return pipe from regulator to tank unobstructed. Those conditions will cause high fuel pressure and likely black smoke...

Is there any smoke? Have someone follow in another car and watch. It takes a LOT of smoke before you can see it in the mirror.

Unbolt the catalytic converter and inspect it for melting / clogging. You should be able to see light all the way from one end to the other through the little holes.

Maybe have someone else look at the timing. You may be interpreting the marks wrong. Can probe in cylinder #1 to confirm crank is really at TDC. The cam gear might not be indexed to the camshaft properly (pin broken or missing). Distributor should be near the center of it's range to get the spark timing correct. If you have to turn it all the way to the end, cam timing is likely wrong, or the ECU was not in test mode. When you restart the engine after putting the jumper in, the CEL should stay on steady to show it is in test mode.

 

Catalytic converter is clean - I took it down when I did the T/M. Timing was set by the book (inductive pick up strobe light). Timing marks are perfectly clear to me. I have had a half dozen Civics and have never had any problems setting the timing. It is approximately in the center of the adjustment range (on the dizzy housing). Timing belt is also 100% correct. Crankshaft pulley is also 100% correct (including torque on the retaining bolt). No I have not used sea foam (yet). Virtually NO smoke. The car REALLY acts like there is a real mechanical physical problem - beyond carbon build up. It just has NO get up and go!!!

 

I have re-read your first post and found that you had set ignition timing with light already. How are the condition of plugs? Do they show any sign of unusual burn? Pinging and jerking may be due to over lean condition...Have you checked for intake leak?

I have never used Sea Form thing my self, but many people swear by it. Give that magic-in-the-bottle a shot. I have never seen an engine that had accumulated that much carbon as to change the compression ratio enough to cause knocking, but...
It seems like the thing works in many area of an engine.

If it works on your engine, that will be great. I may use it for my car as well if it worked on yours...

Engine runs wee bit better when OAT is cold due to dense air.

 

I think you might have a bad valve... What is the history of this car? BTW - Seafoam is magic in a bottle, but you shouldn't expect a miracle! And do not fire up the car inside when you use seafoam... It's potent!

 

The engine shows good compression readings. I kinda ruled out the bad valve.

 

Digging a little deeper, this sort of problem can be caused by the rare situation of a sensor that is out of calibration. It sends bad readings, but not so bad that the ECU detects it and turns on the CEL. The IAT, ECT, and TPS can be checked with a volt or ohm meter. The MAP would best be checked by substitution. Also make sure the MAP has a clear passage to the manifold.

At this point you could also consider forgetting everything done so far, as you may be convinced into assuming something is good when it is not. Go back and recheck everything again as if someone just gave you the car and you know nothing about what the problem may or may not be.

 

UPDATE OF THE PIG I bought a P28 ECU (bone stock) and a pre-made jumper harness off eBay. The car really seems to run WAY better, but I have only driven it for a day. NO more pinging. I did have to reset the timing after the swap. Of interest, the tach cuts out when the V-Tec cut in??? Plus there is an idle issue when cold (quite fast). When I drive to work tomorrow I will get a true feel for it as I will be on familiar roads with it. here's hoping. Still leaves me wondering which component is the bad guy. Thanks to all. Gordon

NO DOUBT ABOUT IT - it is like a different car. So ... do I leave the P28 and ignore the cold idle issues and tachometer problem??? I still think it has something to do with the knock sensor, but I have tried THREE different knock sensors (from known good cars) and even bought a brand new aftermarket one. The new after market knock sensor did in fact throw a code (knock sensor code of course)???? go figure.