Mk, that plan sounded absolutely wonderful until you said I'd have to know the capacity and figure out how much water is in there/I need to put in, then add concentrated antifreeze...that sounds like too much knowledge for me
plus I don't have anyone to help, my step-dad thinks I'm kinda wasting my time I think

headin to autozone tomorrow

 

capacity is 4 quarts (1 gallon)
antifreeze usually comes in jugs of 1 gallon, so after you run the system with straight water and stuff as MK mentioned, then drain the radiator and put the radiator plug back in, pour half a gallon of concentrated antifreeze into the radiator (doesn't have to be a perfect measurement, just try to get as close to half the bottle as possible), and then fill the radiator the rest of the way to the top (where the filler neck meets the top of the radiator) with water. (Make sure all of this is done with the A/C ****/slider turned all the way to heat)

Then bleed the system.


You should replace the thermostat and thermostat seal while you have the coolant drained (~$12), and the radiator hoses if they show signs of wear.

 

You're not wasting your time. This is inexpensive preventative stuff that should be done any time you get into a "new" used car. Along with this basic stuff, you should also consider replacing the timing belt if you don't know how old it is.

Old antifreeze changes into an acid that will corrode the inside of your engine. Someone posted a picture of what happens. He had taken the engine apart because the head gasket leaked. But instead of being a routine blown gasket, the metal of the engine block was corroded away and he needed a new engine.

 

Hey Guys,
I am sort of having the same amount of confusion as "sexypants" did with the Clutch Fluid". I just went to AutoZone and picked up some "Clutch Fluid". Before getting it I read you can just use Brake Fluid... now having read this I see you can. Is there a difference between the two?

Second question is... Where the heck is the Clutch Fluid Reservoir? I can't seem to find it for the life of me... and like "hatch46580" said... My Chilton's Manual is pretty useless for that. In fact, according to Chilton's, it almost sounds like my year doesn't use any Clutch Fluid. I'm sure there is something I'm not understanding correctly, since I believe the Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinders use some sort of DOT hydraulic fluid.

I have a 91 Honda Civic Sedan DX 1.5L. The year just before Civics changed to Hydraulic Clutches. So mine has a cable actuator... I think.

Anything will help. Thanks!

 

Just curious, why is the power steering fluid so specific? What can happen if you use regular ps fluid.

 

I guess we refer to the "Mama knows best" phrase... in this case... it's Honda knows best.

 

You don't have clutch fluid or a master cylinder then (clutch fluid is for hydraulic clutches only). When you push in the clutch on a hydraulic tranny, the master cylinder pushes the fluid in the lines towards the slave cylinder, which pushes the clutch fork and disengages the clutch. On a cable tranny, you have a cable in place of the lines, so there is no fluid.

 

Thank you and at the same time... no thank you "trustdestruction"... (Much more of a thank you though

So you've just solved my problem and gave me another one all in one shot. haha.

I was wondering why I would need a Master Cylinder... Thank you for clearing that up for me. I will post a new thread for my new problem. Thank you thank you!

 

lol
i'm sorry though for initially telling you to change your clutch fluid... i didn't realize you didn't have a hydraulic clutch at first

 

TrustDestruction...
No Worries man... you just alleviated a lot of headache that I had today from working on this in the rain. I'm going to return that Clutch Fluid to AutoZone tomorrow. I'm in the process of posting a new thread right now so sit tight.