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Fan not coming on

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  #1  
Old 01-13-2011 | 02:23 PM
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Default Fan not coming on

What does it mean if the radiator fan doesn't come on, but when I pull the plug off of the temp switch and use a paper clip to jump the two pins together, the fan will come on?
Does this mean the switch has gone bad?
 
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Old 01-13-2011 | 04:16 PM
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Yes, the switch is bad.

Jumping the connector allows you to test the wiring to the fan, as well as the fan itself. If the fan comes on, the switch is at fault. If the fan does not (when jumping), either there is an issue with wiring, or the fan motor is dead.

Should be a semi-cheap fix. Guessing ~$40 for a new switch, and money for replacement coolant. Give yourself an hour, and you can have it done no problem. Just make sure to bleed the system when done and check for leaks.
 

Last edited by cvcrcr99; 01-13-2011 at 04:18 PM.
  #3  
Old 01-13-2011 | 07:25 PM
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Would it be ok just to just bleed the coolant after switching it instead of replacing?
Might be time for new coolant anyways, but say just for temporary until I get time to change it...
 
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Old 01-13-2011 | 08:55 PM
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Also is there still a how to for changing the coolant on here? I thought RonJ had oen in his sig, couldn't find one with the search function.
I rememeber how to drain it, but I remember jacking the front of the car up a bit when i was topping it up and running the engine like that to help get rid of air. Also when the fan came on (thermostat opens) I believe the volume of coolant should get sucked down and you can continue topping and squeezing hoses to get air out. I know there is the bleeder valve as well but I never had much luck with it.
If there's a how to on this forum if anyone has a link that would be awesome. I wont have a chance to do this for a few days anyways.
 
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Old 01-14-2011 | 01:59 AM
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Test drive with the fan on all the time to make sure it doesn't overheat. If it still overheats, the problem is something else. Lack of coolant or restricted flow (thermostat doesn't open, radiator clogged) will cause overheating without the fan coming on-- even though the switch is OK no hot coolant will reach it.

Should not be necessary to drain coolant. As always when working on the cooling system, engine must be COLD. Take the radiator cap off to relieve any pressure, then put it back on. Have the new switch ready to go in right away. Unscrew the old one and put the new one in immediately. Only a small amount of coolant will run out.
 
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Old 01-14-2011 | 04:20 AM
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It's not overheating
Haven't seen temp go above half
Then again, I haven't drove it for a long period of time because im waiting to get it re-tuned.
 
  #7  
Old 01-14-2011 | 05:14 AM
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Generally the car has to sit still idling for a rather long time before the fan will come on. There could be nothing wrong.
 
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Old 01-14-2011 | 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bcrichguitars
Would it be ok just to just bleed the coolant after switching it instead of replacing?
You can re-use the coolant if it is semi-new. Once fluid comes out of my vehicle, it does nto go back in.

Originally Posted by bcrichguitars
Then again, I haven't drove it for a long period of time because im waiting to get it re-tuned.
Re-tuned? Running too lean can cause excessive heat within the combustion chamber.

However, if you are overheating at idle, and the fan is not coming on, it really sound like the switch is damaged since the fan comes on once you jump the switch.
 
  #9  
Old 01-14-2011 | 06:08 PM
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Well the problem is it's running way too rich. I have let it sit idling for about 5 minutes after the engine was warm and the fan didn't come on, I remember the fan used to come on when it idled for about that long with a warmed up engine. The switch is cheap tho, so I'll just replace it anyways once I get this thing tuned.
 
  #10  
Old 01-14-2011 | 06:24 PM
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It would probably be best to have it replaced before any tuning.

What are your AFRs? J/w
 


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