Driveshaft gap between inner joint and differential.
#11
Yes, sounds like you have a leak caused by a damaged oil seal.
Download the 96-98 Civic manual at the link in my signature.
Get the oil seal from your local Honda dealer or here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
Download the 96-98 Civic manual at the link in my signature.
Get the oil seal from your local Honda dealer or here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
#12
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...CLUTCH+HOUSING
Which of all of those is the actual differential oil seal i need?
I see two potential ones:
18580 OIL SEAL (35X56X8) (ARAI)
18581 OIL SEAL (26X42X7) (NOK)
Which of all of those is the actual differential oil seal i need?
I see two potential ones:
18580 OIL SEAL (35X56X8) (ARAI)
18581 OIL SEAL (26X42X7) (NOK)
#13
Edit:
I think its part 18580.
On the other side, I think its part 015 here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ISSION+HOUSING
I think its part 18580.
On the other side, I think its part 015 here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ISSION+HOUSING
Last edited by RonJ; 01-24-2009 at 09:17 PM.
#15
Congrats on the gratifying fix!
I need to ask a favor. For the benefit of other interested HCF members, could you please describe how you removed the old oil seal and installed the new one. Thanks in advance.
I need to ask a favor. For the benefit of other interested HCF members, could you please describe how you removed the old oil seal and installed the new one. Thanks in advance.
#17
First be sure the axle is fully seated. It's real common not to get them all the way in until they lock. Besides having a big leak, the axle will eventually come out and disengage from the gears inside, leaving the car unable to move under its own power. Try to pry the axle out using light pressure, it should not come out.
If that's not it, remove the axle and inspect the surface the seal runs on. If it's not smooth, get a new axle as well as a new seal.
Note that the seals are slightly but importantly different left versus right, so be sure you buy the correct one. There will be a tiny arrow molded into the seal showing the direction the shaft should rotate when the car is moving forward.
Pry out the old seal with a big screwdriver in the shaft hole levering over to the other side. This will mangle the seal but you're throwing it away anyway. The important thing is not to damage the seal bore.
The new seal needs to be pressed down evenly on the outside edge. If you get it started crooked and force it, it will get damaged and leak. If you press on the inner part instead of the outside edge it will get damaged and leak. Find something round that matches the seal OD and use it to put the seal in, tapping very gently and evenly on your round tool with a hammer.
Put some oil or ATF (depending on transmission type) all around the lip of the new seal before putting the axle back in.
If that's not it, remove the axle and inspect the surface the seal runs on. If it's not smooth, get a new axle as well as a new seal.
Note that the seals are slightly but importantly different left versus right, so be sure you buy the correct one. There will be a tiny arrow molded into the seal showing the direction the shaft should rotate when the car is moving forward.
Pry out the old seal with a big screwdriver in the shaft hole levering over to the other side. This will mangle the seal but you're throwing it away anyway. The important thing is not to damage the seal bore.
The new seal needs to be pressed down evenly on the outside edge. If you get it started crooked and force it, it will get damaged and leak. If you press on the inner part instead of the outside edge it will get damaged and leak. Find something round that matches the seal OD and use it to put the seal in, tapping very gently and evenly on your round tool with a hammer.
Put some oil or ATF (depending on transmission type) all around the lip of the new seal before putting the axle back in.
#18
and also dont push the seals in to far!
i did that on mine and it leaked. so look at where your stock seals are at now dept wise and try to match it or have it sit as close to flush as you can. i had mine in about 1/4inch or so to far on one side and it dripped. those drip leaks suck!
i did that on mine and it leaked. so look at where your stock seals are at now dept wise and try to match it or have it sit as close to flush as you can. i had mine in about 1/4inch or so to far on one side and it dripped. those drip leaks suck!
#19
I have had it out and back in this morning already. the gab betwee the inboard joint and the differential is somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 inch leaning more to the 1/4. It takes some fanessing to get in there, its the fisrt time i have had to replace one. How smooth was it supposed to slide in? It took everything i had not t take a mallet to the outboard side and just strike it til it slipd in.. I somewhat question whether or not it is the appropriate fit.
your thoughts?
your thoughts?
#20
did you hear it snap in? sometimes you have to tap it in but be very wise about it and not tear your new boot, try to pull it out a little and shove it in with your hands on the shaft wiggle it if you have to. look at your other side to see if the gap is somewhat the same.