Daytime Running Lights problem
#22
09-12-2010 | 07:36 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
A good Fix
Here is the full meal deal. This Canadian Civic has a Daytime Running Light Module AND a Daytime Running Light Relay, two different animals. The reason why the 10A fuse was blowing was because of the RELAY, not the MODULE. The problem with the relay is that there is a snubber diode across the COIL IN THE RELAY that was shorted out. I replaced the diode with a 1N4001 to fix the problem. The DRL Module is under the dash to the Left side of the steering wheel. The RELAY is behind the glove compartment on the LEFT side of the Glove Compartment opening. There are two relays on the left, a black and a gray, the gray DRL RELAY is forward of the black relay. You can remove the cover of the DRL Relay to fix, it has the markings "MITSUBA RC-5102". The DRL Module is labeled "MITSUBA RZ-0126". The DRL MOdule also has two relays inside, along with about 50 discrete components, that may or may not have "bad solder joints" in the development progress, which may or may not have contributed to the death of the snubber diode in the DRL RELAY.
#24
11-18-2011 | 03:25 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 5
no headlights, drl or hibeams
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I have the same problem JeepFan. i bought the new relay for in behind the glove box and just bought a new drl relay so far ive spent 180$ on both parts and still no headlights at all. ive checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood none were blown. Is it possible that my headlights are dead? i bought 2 new head lamps about 3yrs ago, they should be good still right? i think tomorrow i will pull my headlamps out and try replacing them.
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I have the same problem JeepFan. i bought the new relay for in behind the glove box and just bought a new drl relay so far ive spent 180$ on both parts and still no headlights at all. ive checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood none were blown. Is it possible that my headlights are dead? i bought 2 new head lamps about 3yrs ago, they should be good still right? i think tomorrow i will pull my headlamps out and try replacing them.
#25
06-23-2013 | 09:41 PM
HCF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 97
Here is the full meal deal. This Canadian Civic has a Daytime Running Light Module AND a Daytime Running Light Relay, two different animals. The reason why the 10A fuse was blowing was because of the RELAY, not the MODULE. The problem with the relay is that there is a snubber diode across the COIL IN THE RELAY that was shorted out. I replaced the diode with a 1N4001 to fix the problem. The DRL Module is under the dash to the Left side of the steering wheel. The RELAY is behind the glove compartment on the LEFT side of the Glove Compartment opening. There are two relays on the left, a black and a gray, the gray DRL RELAY is forward of the black relay. You can remove the cover of the DRL Relay to fix, it has the markings "MITSUBA RC-5102". The DRL Module is labeled "MITSUBA RZ-0126". The DRL MOdule also has two relays inside, along with about 50 discrete components, that may or may not have "bad solder joints" in the development progress, which may or may not have contributed to the death of the snubber diode in the DRL RELAY.
The DRL module, LH under dash, has bad solder joints that cause the DRL Relay (behind the Glove Compartment) to chatter. If the DRL Relay is still chattering then all you need to do is fix the bad solder joints in the DRL Module under the LH dash. If not, this chattering of the DRL relay eventually shorts out the snubber diode across the DRL relay coil which in turn causes the 10A DRL Fuse to blow. Use a 1N4001 (or equiv) diode to fix the DRL relay (watch the band on the diode for polarity), repair the solder joints in the DRL Module, they are very obviously bad, not enough heat on the assembly line. Then replace the fuse and you are good to go.
This rework is just an excuse to bump this thread up before it vapourizes, it has taken a lot of hits, wouldn't want to lose it.
#26
01-07-2018 | 05:38 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 3
DRL 2004 honda civc
Hi i'd to know if anyone can help me with the DRL issues im having. All lights work except the daytime running lights. I have re-solder the broken solder on the drl module and have put a new fuse and everytime i start up my car the fuse burns out on me and still do not have daytime running lights. can anyone help me with this problem
#27
01-14-2018 | 09:30 AM
HCF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 97
Hi i'd to know if anyone can help me with the DRL issues im having. All lights work except the daytime running lights. I have re-solder the broken solder on the drl module and have put a new fuse and everytime i start up my car the fuse burns out on me and still do not have daytime running lights. can anyone help me with this problem
#29
01-14-2018 | 10:28 AM
HCF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 97
You can get a 1N4001 diode from Radio Shack (Circuit City in Canada), it is a very common diode.
You need to remove the plug in DRL relay behind the glove box and pull the cover off.
In all likelihood the existing diode will be burnt so be careful to note the polarity of the diode by noting the end that has the BAND.
Replacing the diode will require soldering skills. If you do not have the soldering skills then buy a new relay from the stealership.
If you install the diode backwards it will still blow 10A DRL Fuse.
You need to remove the plug in DRL relay behind the glove box and pull the cover off.
In all likelihood the existing diode will be burnt so be careful to note the polarity of the diode by noting the end that has the BAND.
Replacing the diode will require soldering skills. If you do not have the soldering skills then buy a new relay from the stealership.
If you install the diode backwards it will still blow 10A DRL Fuse.