Might a simpler test be to look for 12V from the white wire (corresponding to terminal E) from the disconnected connector of the combination switch? In this case, measuring 0V or 12V at the white wire would either implicate or rule out, respectively, the fuse box or upstream wire.

 

Yeah, the dimmer switch is probably bad. Replacing it should solve the problem.

 

So I just looped the wire from the red socket to the black which is the ground right? All lights work, Heading to the wreaking yard for a dimmer switch. Man I wish The guys who tested the switch first off would have been right. It would have saved me time and energy. Now my Stereo is not working but that is for tomorrow. Thanks & Happy Halloween!

 

I wish mine problem was just the dimmer switch. However, the bad bulb on the taillights didn't do it and I swapped in another Cluster wire harness paying attention to the ground wire connection and I have the same problem. I just wanted to rule out a bad cluster wire harness. I think its a good idea and replace the signal/light combination switch since the one I put in was used from ebay. The original combination switch had a bad headlight switch. Well anyway, I try the combination switch test that you guys suggested as well because a bad ground connection or open wire should be consistent with the 1 minute delay for the taillights and cluster lights to come on. I am thinking more and more it might be that combo switch because once electricity is running for awhile, it will warm up and start working with only a 0-1 second delay. The only other thing I can think of is the under dash fuse box. I have replaced fuse #19 for the hell of it. When I tried the dimmer test (short the ground to the red wire connector on dimmer switch) it acted like the dash lights and tail lights. After a 1 minute delay when it was cold, the lights came on. The only thing before that is the combo switch and fuse box itself. I will take some reading on fuse #19 to see if I got voltage coming to that before the power goes to the cluster and taillight harness. Thanks for all the help. I will update the progress and hopefully this thread could be useful for others.

 

Well thanks to Ronj and MK378, the solution was the headlight/signal combo switch. It was going bad. The switch was resistive between points D and E when the headlights were turned on. It took awhile for the switch to read low resistance. Hence, when it warmed up it was not resistive anymore. I swapped it out with another combo switch and that was the fix. Thanks guys! You guys rock! Another thing is that when getting a used part, it can be bad in a similar way. Thanks again!