So this is the first time I have dealt with any import vehicles so bare with me. I just bought a 92 civic hatch that my older brother had abandoned. The motor is a D16Y8 and the person who did the swap swapped in the harness out of the 00 into the car. The problem is the harness out of the 00 was a auto and the car now has a 5 speed. The ecu that was in the car was a p2p - a92 1214 - 293537 that wouldnt let me rev over 5k rpm and i was getting a bunch of auto tranny codes. I found a used p2p - a12 - 1213 - 263151, installed it and solved the tranny codes but now it idles high jumping up and down from 1500 - 1600 rpm. Other issues are a code 14 (I.A.C.valve that I tried to clean. Didnt help), code 20 ( E.L.D.) , a code 41 (primary o2) , code 66 ( secondary o2), and a code 91(fuel tank pressure code. I think this one is from my 92 tank not having this sensor) I bought new o2 sensors but just realized i need the 4 wire not the 3 wire so I will replace them tomorrow. Thanks for the help Flame on

 

Auto has a 3 wire IACV. Manual has a 2 wire IACV. So your IACV no longer matches the ECU. Time to shop for more parts. I think you also need to change the throttle body to get the proper IACV on there.

Make sure the O2 sensors are getting power to their heaters. Did you have O2 sensor codes with the old ECU also?

The ELD code is often spurious.

 

my opinion is to get rid of all that obd2 b.s. the person who did the swap didnt know what they where doin. put everything back to obd1.
you can leave the d16y8 motor in. just get a 92-95 - wire harness, intake manifold, ecu(p28), and then 99% of your problems will be solved.

 

Is there a way to use the auto ecu and trick it so it doesnt throw auto tranny codes?

 

yes but if you dont have mad skills on soldering i wouldnt recommend it.
just get a obd1 p28 ecu and a obd1 intake manifold and a obd1 wire harness from a 92-95 civic. all your problems will be solved.... also with all those cel's on your vtec wont work either. i know what im talking about. and highly recommend it. if not then your just wasting your time and money. there is so much more that the p2p ecu requires than the p28. ithe p2p requires another o2 sensor, knock sensor, fuel pressure sensor.

 

The problem with doing that is that the car has*the dash out of a 2000 in it and the o2 sensors are both 4 wire. How much of a pain is it going to be to hook up that dash to an obd1 harness? I really just want to get this car together enough to sell and start over fresh. As far as soldering goes I have done my fair share.

 

Also would I have to get an obd1 dizzzy too?

 

you have 2 options
1: get a obd1 d16z6 ecu..( nonvtec dizzy's bolt holes wont match holes on a vtec head)
2: you can use the d16y8 dizzy but you will need to buy a jumper(converter plug)

all the extra obd2 stuff you can sell and make your money for the obd stuff needed.


im curious can you post pics of this car.. engine,dash and stuff.

edit - see now you mention the dash being 00" this makes a difference. yea just sell it and start fresh the person who did all this didnt get everything planned.

 

The guy who did it was a moron. Is the dash being a 00 going to screw me? Where can I find info on the soldering needed to trick my computer on the auto stuff? Thanks for all the great info!

 

I was just reading through the tech and it looks like I could convert to a 2 wire iacv and still use the p2p for the manual. Then all I have to do is figure out my o2 sensors ( which it has 2 4 wire sensors installed already) and the fuel pressure sensor issue. I know this is not the correct way to do it but I goota try to make it work so I can get this thing out of my garage.