The basic NGK plugs listed in your owner's manual are all you really need.

Did I miss something? I thought there were no CEL codes.

 

CEL is related to the cat. I'll get the code next time I can get ahold of the shop's OBDII. I had stated that I did have a CEL but unrelated to the cooling issue.

After replacing the fuel filter last night I def noticed an improvement. This weekend I'll do the plugs and timing... perhaps bite the bullet and order a new cat/mani

 

Today's update.

Wife had borrowed the car last night. Engine light came on when she was driving but she said it drove ok, no worse then the last few weeks (bog/hesitation issue)

Woke up to pouring rain. Drove to work and the car was acting worse then ever, even cold. I had to rev to about 3000RPM and slip the clutch just to pull away from a stop. Picked up some plugs (NGK V-power again) at lunchbreak. I was in a hurry to get home for supper so I pulled the negative terminal, installed the plugs, and had a smoke. Reconnected the negative and started the car. Bogging like it has been. Pulled the negative went to change, hooked up the battery, and drove home. Still bogging but not bad. My drive to the shop just now was fine. No bogging (and as of yet no CEL). OBDII scanner is locked up, so I can't road test and check what the car is doing.

However in re-reading some of the "solved problems" threads it seems that a lot of my symptoms mirror those of a bad primary O2 sensor. However with a cracked exhaust mani, would the car show the same symptoms even though the O2 sensor appears to be ok? I plan on doing the cat/mani this weekend. I just need to bite the bullet and do it. However if it does nothing to improve the situation I think I'm gonna scream!!

Anyway, I'll post another update when something new comes up. Headed out for a test drive and then back home (kinda hopingthe CEL comes back so I can check/verify that code) If I recall it was cat out of expected range or something like that.

 

If it gets a lot worse in the rain, likely the spark wires are bad or there's a crack in the cap.

 

If you don't have a code reader, just jump the service connector to pull the codes.

 

No CEL as of yet. purchased and installed a 2 piece cat/mani to replace the stock (and cracked) piece. looks like the stock piece but its bolted together just under the collector.

Anyway, had the negative disconected while i installed it. hooked it back up and left it to idle for about 15 minutes. Test drive went great, seems to run better then iy has in quite a while. I'll have access to a timing light monday so I can make sure that its right.

Do i need to re-torque the nuts/studs after its been heat cycled a few times? its cast iron like stock.

Again, I'll post again soon.

MK, I did a visual on the cap, didn't see anything abnormal. Cap/rotor/wires were replaced at the same time.... about 18 months ago.

**EDIT** is there any way that the stock rev limiter could be removed or reset? During my test drive I ran through the RPM range (when it was fully warmed up) and was past 7000, closer to 7500RPM before I backed off. I thought the stock rev limiter kicked in around 6200-6500? If I did somehow remove it, is there a way to "re-install" that bit of data onto the computer?

 

bump for 4 answers....