Clutch Disengagement Issue
#11
You got it Ron. As I mentioned, I would rather not have to pull the trans. If I do I might as well replace the rear main seal, flywheel, clutch, PP disc, and T.O./Pilot bearings while I am in there. No more down time please
Anyways, here is going to be my course of action. I'll post up again once the following things have been replaced.
1. Adjust clutch pedal to remove "play" in the pedal.
2. Re-bleed the system 100%
3. Replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder / adjust pedal (if needed), and re-bleed system.
If nothing changes after that, I'll post up again and let you guys know.
Thanks!
Anyways, here is going to be my course of action. I'll post up again once the following things have been replaced.
1. Adjust clutch pedal to remove "play" in the pedal.
2. Re-bleed the system 100%
3. Replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder / adjust pedal (if needed), and re-bleed system.
If nothing changes after that, I'll post up again and let you guys know.
Thanks!
#12
Adjusted the free play today. I ended up extending the push rod as far into the master cylinder as possible just to see if it would work.
The car is able to go into gear with just a slight push of the shift ****. However, the clutch lets out extremely high, so I am assuming I adjusted it too far. Got to a stop sign and the car was able to go into gear again as it normally did. Into second and third with no problems either (except the pedal letting out extremely high).
Got to another stop sign, no gears. Shut it off, pushed the clutch in, put the car in 1st and started it. It did not jerk and take off. I pulled over, put the car in neutral and I was able to shift into 1st as well as all the others gears again.
Lastly, I pulled back the little rubber boot which the push rod goes into and it looks pretty dirty in there. Looked at my coupe which has a 10K mile old clutch master cylinder and it was 100% clean.
Looks like I will be re-adjusting the play (adding more slack) on the hatch to see if I can get by until the new master cylinder gets here.
The car is able to go into gear with just a slight push of the shift ****. However, the clutch lets out extremely high, so I am assuming I adjusted it too far. Got to a stop sign and the car was able to go into gear again as it normally did. Into second and third with no problems either (except the pedal letting out extremely high).
Got to another stop sign, no gears. Shut it off, pushed the clutch in, put the car in 1st and started it. It did not jerk and take off. I pulled over, put the car in neutral and I was able to shift into 1st as well as all the others gears again.
Lastly, I pulled back the little rubber boot which the push rod goes into and it looks pretty dirty in there. Looked at my coupe which has a 10K mile old clutch master cylinder and it was 100% clean.
Looks like I will be re-adjusting the play (adding more slack) on the hatch to see if I can get by until the new master cylinder gets here.
#13
If you don't let the master cylinder come all the way back to resting position, pressure will build up until the clutch doesn't work. You have the pedal adjusted too tight (pressing in on the cylinder too much).
At least now you know there's no mechanical problem in the clutch assembly. If it doesn't work with the pedal properly adjusted, replace master cylinder.
At least now you know there's no mechanical problem in the clutch assembly. If it doesn't work with the pedal properly adjusted, replace master cylinder.
#14
Perfect! That explains the random lock out yesterday. I readjusted it this morning to add slack and took it out for a drive and no problems whatsoever. Still lets out slightly higher than I am used to, but I have been driving my g/f's Integra for the past week or so, so I am used to that.
I'll post up again once I get a replacement clutch master cylinder installed.
I'll post up again once I get a replacement clutch master cylinder installed.
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