Hey guys,

I've got a 2000 civic si with a B18C1 swap. I've had the car for 2.5 years now with no problems but now it won't start. It cranks but it isn't getting fire at the coil. I'm assuming it has something to do with the distributer.

I realized the O2 sensor wasn't plugged in a long time ago but I ignored it(i know dumb move). I'm also assuming that the guy removed the CEL bulb because it would have stayed on for that reason. I replaced the bulb and checked the CEL codes by jumping the wires like described in the tech section. Maybe I misread the code(Long-Pause-Long-Short-Pause-L-L-L-L-S-Pause-Repeat)I translate this to 1,11,41 or perhaps 10,11,41. Either way I don't see a code 11. Hell maybe it's only 21 and 41.

Would a defective IAT Sensor(code 10)or a VTEC Solenoid Valve(code 21) keep my car from starting and what does the code 41(Primary O2 sensor-Heater Circuit malfunction) mean?

 

Yes, it sounds like a problem with the coil or igniter unit in the distributor. Nonetheless, do you hear the low humming sound of the fuel pump for a few seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON but don't crank the engine? Is your engine oil low? Have you now plugged in the O2 sensor?

The pictures below show how to troubleshoot the distributor coil and igniter unit.

When you get the engine firing, clear the CEL codes by removing the 7.5A BACKUP fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for 10-20 seconds, then reinsert. Run the engine, and when (if) the CEL stays ON, then again retrieve the code(s). Only troubleshoot codes that repeat. Repost a follow up to receive more feedback.

 

Thanks for the good advice Ron J. The oil was low so I put 1 quart in it and nothing changed. I haven't had the O2 sensor plugged in because now I can't even find the connector on the vehicle harness. I'm sure it was there and I tucked it away but couldn't find it. I checked the connections for the coil and ICM.

First thing: I am going to change the coil because it measured out of spec.

A-B contacts measured 1 ohm at room temp. and it should have measured .63-.77 ohms.

A-Secondary Winding Terminal measured 9.2 K Ohms and it should have measured between 22.4-33.6 K Ohms.

Everything tested fine for the ICM except for one thing. The blue wire coming off of the ICM isn't hooked up to anything. I honestly don't think it ever was. There is a seperate connector for it and it's just hanging off the distributer. I didn't see any other connector that would have fit it.

The ICM Input Test sheetsaid to test for continuity between the blue wire at the ICM and the test tach connector which Iassume is on the ECM. I saw a blue wire coming out of the ECM but I'm not sure where the hell it ends up. I'm affraid to run a new wire in case I hook it up wrong. I'm assuming that connection at the ECM is in the same connector as the other Yellow/Green going to the ICM. BTW that connector wasn't 32P as labeled in the tech sheet.

Still not running, going to change the coil and try to fire it up.

 

As you say, sounds like replacing the coil should fix the problem. By the way, the blue wire is for the tachometer in the gauge assembly.

 

Thanks again Ron J. I got the coil today and put it on. Forgot to reconnect the distributer at first but the damn thing runs! I can't thank you enough for the good advise and the tech sheets were very useful. My only problem now is that the CEL is flashing codes 8 and 41 so my car isn't at TDC and I can tell because it is sluggish when driving.

I'm going to get my semi-mechanic buddy to help me out in the next few days but what's the easiest way to get back to TDC?

Guess I should have made some marks before removing everything huh.

Thanks-Trent

 

That's good news.

Code 41 is signaling the O2 sensor problem that you already know about.

Code 8 is indicating a lack of signal from the TDC sensor in the distributor. More detailed information can be obtained by retrieving the CEL code with a scan tool; however, first clear the CEL codes by removing the 7.5A BACKUP fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds and then reinsert it. Run the engine. When the CEL turns ON, retrieve the code(s) again to ensure that code 8 repeats.

If code 8 repeats, make sure the Red and Green wires leading from the TDC sensor in the distributor are not damaged. Also check whether the terminals for these two wires in the distributor connector are not corroded or damaged. Unfortunately, if the TDC sensor is bad, the entire distributor housing must be replaced.

Here's how to properly set the ignition timing using a timing gun:

 

Ok thanks Ron, my friend has a timing light that I can use tomorrow but I've got the car running pretty smoothly just doing it by centering the distributer best as possible and I don't think I have a problem but I just want to check to see where it's at. Do you have the specs for a B18C1? I noticed it's not on the tech sheet above.

On another note I forgot to reset the computer and check thecodes again but what exactly does the TDC sensor do? My car is running fine right now. Is it just there to let you know that it's not TDC?

One more thing, lets say there are no wires in the harness for the O2 sensor. I would like to wire it up myself if possible. I'm not sure what harness was used but the computer says "95' GSR" on it. Do you know what connectors/terminals need to be hooked up?

Thanks again forthe advise.

Trent

 

That's more good news.

Set the ignition timing so that the red mark (middle line in group of three) aligns with the pointer. Afterwards, clear the ECU. Perhaps code 8 won't return. The picture describes the function of the TDC sensor.

I am not sure how to help you with the O2 sensor wiring. Maybe other members can advise you.