As I was driving down the freeway, my 90 Civic DX coughed and stopped running. After pulling over, I looked under the car and saw the cat converter was red hot. I had it towed home and dropped the cat converter thinking it was plugged and wouldn't let it start. It still wouldn't start after dropping the cc. I removed the dist cap and found the set screw that holds the rotor in place came out and was letting the rotor spin free. I reinstalled the set screw and put the cap back on and the car still won't start. Internet search shows maybe a coil or igniter could be bad. Will the rotor spinning free cause either of these to fail??

 

Converter gets red hot because of misfiring. Raw gas passes through the engine, burns in the converter, and overheats it. If it doesn't look melted inside (you should be able to see light all the way through the little square holes) it should be OK.

Firing into an open circuit (e.g. rotor problem) can blow the coil. Test if you have sparks at a plug first. If not, take cap off and hold a grounded test wire near the coil output post. Crank and see that you get strong blue sparks. If only weak yellow sparks the coil is bad. No sparks at all, though the rotor turns, could be the igniter. Igniter problems are not as common.

 

Wifey came home and I had her crank the engine while I stuck a screwdriver in a plug wire while holding the screwdriver close to ground. Only get a small spark. Don't see a big spark. Coil bad?? Thanks Kevin

 

I replaced the coil without any change. Still will not start. Any chance I broke the timing belt, or do I start checking for gas? Thanks Kevin

 

Do you hear the fuel pump come on for 3 secs when you first turn key on? Listen by the back seat for a hummmm, are you getting spark?

 

I don't think I have a timing belt broke because I bumped the motor over to get the rotor turned to where I could put the screw back in that had fallen out.

I think what I thought was a weak spark was just hard to see in the daylight. I changed the coil, but probably didn't need to. I'm getting spark.

I checked the error code and it flashes 12 times. I googled this and it says EGR system. The last mechanic who worked on it needed to replace the EGR valve to get it to pass smog. I wonder if he forgot to reset the codes?

Is "EGR SYSTEM" the correct diagnosis for code 12?

Also whats the easiest way to see if I'm getting gas? I can't hear anything from the back of the car when I turn the key on. I even layed the seat down and still couldn't hear anything. Thanks Kevin

 

Does the check engine light go on and back off when you turn the key on but don't try to start?

The easiest way to check fuel flow is to disconnect the fuel return hose which leads from the fuel pressure regulator on the DPFI throttle body to a metal line at the firewall which leads back to the gas tank. Loosen the gas cap to relieve any pressure then disconnect the hose at the metal line and direct the hose into a container. Then turn the key on but don't try to start, and fuel should come out of the hose for a short time.

Timing belts can skip teeth. The cam will still turn but the engine won't start because the timing is wrong. I guess you have a California model if it has an EGR valve and Code 12. The other 49 states model does not have an EGR system at all. Code 12 would not prevent the engine from running.

 

Remove the fuel cap and put your ear to the fill hole while a buddy turns the ignition key to ON(II). If you don't hear the low humming noise of the fuel pump priming for 2 seconds, then check whether any of the three main relay fuses are blown. Also test the main relay itself.

If the fuel pump primes, then check the mechanical timing to see whether the timing belt skipped a tooth or two.

 

Yes

I did this and get about between 1/4 and 1/2 cup of gas every time I turn the key on w/o starting the engine.

I'm in San Diego. How would I check for jumped tooth or what would be the next troubleshooting step? Thanks kevin