i can't check for any codes because the check light won't shut of for those first 10 seconds. I've even taken it to a mechanic and it won't even read it there. they can't even tell me what's wrong with it either

 

i've checked all the fuses also. and there's nothing wrong with them.

 

What, no codes? No way.. if your ECU wasn't functioning your car wouldn't keep running. As for the quick start... well old cars have a lot of old parts. When you turn the key to acc, that is when the injectors are primed, hear the humming.. thats good. If your car doesn't start quick, you are still ok, the vacuum and priming are a mandatory function without that nothing would start. To make your car start quicker, invest in your power distribution... starter,plugs,wires, coil setup. New connections to all those listed will provide a quicker start. If that doesnt help, look at your fuel delivery, filter, pressure, flow. I wok at NAPA, so if you need to clena your injectors, we dont charge much, as long as the one you go to has the setup we do.Actually my car starts quicker if I start as the priming cycle is going, sometimes it stalls after a full prime. In the old days on the first cars, they had to prep the valves before a start, imagine a winter morning in the midwest, and still having to manualy crank your engine to start,be happy your car starts. Innovations can only go so far..

 

I forgot to say that when the check light comes on it mean the ecu is working and running a check on the systems, if the light goes out that means you good yo! Maybe your ECU is about to go bad if it really starts that rough.

 

it also illuminates to make the driver aware that the cel bulb still works.

 

How could i check the fuel delivery amd pressure on my own?

 

Can I get more advice on this cause the injectors don't get primed till the key has been on ACC for 10 seconds. I want to here that humming sound right away when I put my key on ACC.