Seriously, you need to listen carefully. You have the wrong ECU installed. You are potentially wasting both your time and your money if, before installing the correct ECU, you do any work or replace any parts. Install the correct ECU and go from there.

 

He put the original pcm back in, ron

 

Thanks Reaper. I missed that the original ECU has now been reinstalled.

The OP mentioned that the car now runs for 10-15 minutes and that there are no longer any CEL codes. Is this correct? If so, during the 10-15 minutes, does the engine run and idle perfectly?

Also, is the correct distributor for your Civic installed?

 

after much reading through my service manual, I determined my problem was the ECTS, I unplugged it, and my car runs great, now I just gotta find a huge wrench or deep well to replace it!

 

what is the ects??

 

Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor:

 

well my car ran fine for about 2 days, I replaced the ects on the thermostat housing, now the check engine light is back on, car bucks, studders and shakes again, when I press the throttle it bogs majorly and rpms go to zero. Back to scanning ecu codes again...................

 

Pull the CEL code(s) by jumping the service connector (see link in my signature). It may have been a coincidence that replacing the ECT sensor seemed to fix the problem because previously unplugging this sensor did not have an effect.

Have you checked the ignition timing with a timing gun?

 

Only codes that came up were missfires cylinder 1 2 3 4, and "multiple misfires". The civic bogs out horrible after driving it awhile, and rpms drop to zero, giving it throttle has no effect when this happens. Im stumped, this is a honda nightmare right here.

 

The random misfire codes are your best clue yet and therefore will likely lead to a solution. I recommend that you measure the fuel pressure. Have you already replaced the fuel filter? You may have a problem with the fuel pump, fuel filter, or fuel pressure regulator.