car runs like @$$
#1
car runs like @$$
Hi, my civics been down for over a month, at first it broke down and it wouldnt start at all, so I bought a beand new distributor, cap, rotor, spark plugs, and map sensor, installed everything, car starts now. My new problem is this, car starts up, I can drive it for 5 or 10 minutes and it feels like it has 60-70 horsepower, car starts bucking, tachometer is all over the place (from 0-3k rpms usually). Ive tried 3 different ecus, cleared the codes, scanned it again with a code reader and it comes up with P1508, P1166, P1259. I have no idea what to do now, Ive already wasted upwards of 200$ to no avail. Ive also tried driving the car with different sensors unplugged at different times, to try and troubleshoot the problem. Ive unplugged one sensor at a time and then drove the car starting with the map sensor, primary o2 sensor, secondary o2, and iacv unplugged, none of these things seemed to change how the car runs, and none of them alleviated the problem in any way.
Please help.
Please help.
Last edited by shadman52; 06-26-2009 at 12:17 PM.
#4
Check for bad grounds, etc. Tach jumping up and down suggests interrupted electrical supply. Does the speedo do the same thing?
Could be the fuse 15 problem. Have you replaced the O2 sensor yet? Unplug the sensor and test the resistance between the two heater wires (the two wires that are the same color). If open circuit, replace sensor.
Make sure your plug wires are plugged in in the right order (1-3-4-2 going clockwise). Timing must be set with a light after changing distributor.
Check for dead cylinders by unplugging fuel injectors one at a time while the engine idles badly. Adjusting the valves too tight can cause a dead cylinder when the engine warms up.
Could be the fuse 15 problem. Have you replaced the O2 sensor yet? Unplug the sensor and test the resistance between the two heater wires (the two wires that are the same color). If open circuit, replace sensor.
Make sure your plug wires are plugged in in the right order (1-3-4-2 going clockwise). Timing must be set with a light after changing distributor.
Check for dead cylinders by unplugging fuel injectors one at a time while the engine idles badly. Adjusting the valves too tight can cause a dead cylinder when the engine warms up.
#5
plug wires are in the right order, they are clean and new, plugs are brand new, tight, and gapped corectlly, distributor, coil, cap, rotor all brand new, map sensor is brand new. Ive dumped over 200$ into ignition parts and sensors, Ive tried 3 ecus, and 3 diff code scanners, I really cannot afford to replace every sensor under the hood and hope for the best. Has anyone had these same type of problems Im having? or has anyone got trouble codes P1508 or P1166? this is a nightmare.
#6
It didn't occur to you to consult google about the codes?
P1508 - Idle Air Control Valve circuit malfunction
P1166 - Air/fuel ratio sensor (Sensor 1) Heater circuit malfunction
P1259 - VTEC system circuit fault bank 1
P1508 - replace your IAC valve. That's why your rpm's are all over the place. You could try cleaning it, but in my experience most of the time by the time they throw a code it's too late. I'd suggest trying to clean it first.
P1166 - replace your primary o2 sensor; it has a lot to do with why your car's running like s**t. It's probably dirty, and reading a false lean; during closed-loop operation that would cause the PCM to tell the injectors to up the duty cycle, basically dumping fuel into the engine.
P1259 - do you have the stock engine and what PCM (ecu) are you using? Considering DX's don't have vtec, you shouldn't even be able to throw this code. Are you sure the code is P1259?
P1508 - Idle Air Control Valve circuit malfunction
P1166 - Air/fuel ratio sensor (Sensor 1) Heater circuit malfunction
P1259 - VTEC system circuit fault bank 1
P1508 - replace your IAC valve. That's why your rpm's are all over the place. You could try cleaning it, but in my experience most of the time by the time they throw a code it's too late. I'd suggest trying to clean it first.
P1166 - replace your primary o2 sensor; it has a lot to do with why your car's running like s**t. It's probably dirty, and reading a false lean; during closed-loop operation that would cause the PCM to tell the injectors to up the duty cycle, basically dumping fuel into the engine.
P1259 - do you have the stock engine and what PCM (ecu) are you using? Considering DX's don't have vtec, you shouldn't even be able to throw this code. Are you sure the code is P1259?
#7
Clear the CEL codes again to see if the same three repeat.
I really don't think any of the three CEL codes is making the engine run so poorly. A bad primary O2 sensor could cause the engine to run poorly, but I don't think it's your problem because unplugging it did not lead to an improvement.
Is the tach still jumping around? If so, take the ICM out of the distributor and have it tested at an auto parts store. If bad, replacing it may improve how the engine runs.
I really don't think any of the three CEL codes is making the engine run so poorly. A bad primary O2 sensor could cause the engine to run poorly, but I don't think it's your problem because unplugging it did not lead to an improvement.
Is the tach still jumping around? If so, take the ICM out of the distributor and have it tested at an auto parts store. If bad, replacing it may improve how the engine runs.
#8
#9
yes, I googled the engine codes... obviously. No its a dx, and no its not vtec, 1 of my 3 pcms musta been from a vtec car. Ill order a IACV off ebay and let you know what happens, thanks for the replies though guys.
#10
Install the correct ECU and then go from there.