Intro:
My car has been bucking forward everyone once and a while lately. I started a thread when this first started happening to get me home. This problem has been coming and going for the last few months and I wanted to try to give the full story in a thread. Most of all I want this fixed but also I want to document this for the next guy.

Old Thread Help Help - stranded!!

The Problem:
The car bucks forward almost like a car does when you’re learning how to dive a stick, or maybe like some one slamming on the breaks. The car will only do this on the highway and it does this to various degrees. Sometimes it’s very faint like an automatic car shifting gears, others times it’s a violent buck and I feel like there’s a thump under the hood. Sometimes I will get a check engine light with the P0336 Crank Position sensor code.
When this happens to me on the highway some things I’m able to dom to get home are reset the ECU by pulling the jumper for 10mins then letting the car ideal for 10 minutes. This sometimes works other times the problem will show up 10 miles latter. Other times when it’s faint I can pull over on the side of the highway turn the car off for 2 minutes then I’m fine. When this happens to me it will start on the highway faint a couple of time, then later on while driving the problem will start and show up more and more until I have to pull over and take car of it.
This problem 1st started when I took a trip cross county 1200 miles only stopping for gas. When the problem started I took the car for an oil change and everything was fine until 800 nonstop miles later. After that trip the problem will only show up every 600 miles and 6000 miles later the problem will show up every 250 miles or on any long highway trip.
One thing I have noticed is that the problem is more likely to show up when I have the ac on or when I have other passengers in the car. When I can’t fix the problem while pulled over I have found that I’m able to get home by flooring the gas peddle and then pushing the clutch down and coasting along the highway getting down the road on short burst. Also when the are is acting up it hates having to go up hills and I often need to keep my rpms low.

The car
The car is a 2002 lx Manual with about 134k mils on it. Got the car is February at 117k miles and since then put about 500 miles a weeks on the car. In that time I’ve keep up with things like oil changes. During my daily drive I do average of 85 often reaching speeds over 100miels an hour. Since I’ve had the car I have added a short ram intake new system with a 200 and 600 watt amp. Also I don’t know if this will help but when I put my hand to the car muffler there is fluid sometimes and it’s not smooth is kind of a putt putt.

Current plan of action
So far I’ve tried new cone filter, new sparks, fuel cleaner’s treatment, new battery grounds and a trainy oil change. Also there are no air leaks in the lines for the air intake. Since I’m getting a crank shaft potion sensor as the error I’ve gotten a new one to replace the possible faulty one. I understand that replacing this part is one step away from doing a timing belt job. I had this done when I bought the car 17k miles ago, so is doing this over again a waste of money? Also I’m going to have to buy all the tools to do the job so is it worth it to do it my self or taking it to a the shop (do have the basic tools and jack and jack stands). My thought is to take it to auto shop by my house have the loses the pain in the *** bolt then drive the car home and replace the part or do the whole timing belt plus extras job on my own.
Conclusion
First off if you read all this thanks, second I just want to sun up what I’m looking for so here are my questions. Does anyone know what’s wrong with my car? Should I do the part replacement or the whole timing belt job? can someone give me a Honda shopping list with serial numbers if I’m going to do the timing belt job? Also how much would the tools and parts cost if I did it myself

Thanks everyone

 

nothing guys?

 

You might consider replacing the plug wires and fuel filter, and checking the ignition timing.

 

The 7th gens don't have plug wires but if the the new sensors doesn't work I guess its fuel filter next

 

How can it not have plug wires..... especially when you search "01-05 plug wires" you find them for sale...

 

I though most of them have the distributorless ignition. There is a coil dedicated to each plug. The coil fits into the hole in the valve cover. They are fed by low voltage wires.

These coils can of course go bad and cause misfiring, very expensive to replace on a whim though. But also the ECU software tries to detect misfiring and identify which cylinder so a faulty coil might eventually cause a CEL.

 

As the engine has spark plugs, it logically also has spark plug wires. While the engine lacks a distributor, the ignition timing can still be checked with a timing gun, though the ECU might need to be replaced if the ignition timing were found to be off.

 

There are no spark plug wires. The coils fit directly on top of the plugs.

The OP should get the crank sensor working solid before even thinking about whether the timing is going to be right.

 

I just bought the crankshaft tool and I already have the new sensor. So next week I’m going to crack the engine open and replace the part. When I do it sense I’m just replacing the senor do I really need to drain the oil and coolant? Also am I going to need any other parts if so which ones.

 

You will not have to drain the oil at all. You only need to drain the coolant if you're replacing the water pump.

Be very careful to secure the wires of your new sensor so they don't get caught in the belts. That's how many of them die.