A/C not working - please advise
#11
1. I did try out whatever described here http://www.ht-archive.com/showthread.php?p=42431858 in post number 2 and my thermal protector shows continuity. here is the same test on "accepted Answer" post: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...c-blower-works ...so I do have continuity on this guy.
2. My second test was taken from here from "accepted anwer post"
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...problem-i-have
so, I did jump the red wire that comes from the pressure switch to thermal protector to ground....no luck.
3. I did unplug switch from harness/themal protector, started the car and did jump red wire from thermal protector sitch (on harness side) to ground....didn't work. I did trace where this red wire comes from ....it come from pressure switch. I did connect harness/thermal protector connectin back, did unplug pressure switch and did jump the same red wire from pressure switch to the ground......and it worked after I sateryed car and put a/c to ON, all started - compressor/fans...... I did measure a resistance on both pins of pressure switch connector and it is 1.
Thanks
#12
So the pressure switch is open, this probably means there is no pressure (faulty pressure switches are rare). The next step would be to check the system pressure with pressure gauges. Forcing the compressor to run when there is no refrigerant can damage the compressor. If the refrigerant is all gone there is a major leak that needs to be repaired. Just recharging it is not going to last long.
#13
So the pressure switch is open, this probably means there is no pressure (faulty pressure switches are rare). The next step would be to check the system pressure with pressure gauges. Forcing the compressor to run when there is no refrigerant can damage the compressor. If the refrigerant is all gone there is a major leak that needs to be repaired. Just recharging it is not going to last long.
Is there any way I can check if refrigerant exist in the system without going to body shop?
Thanks
#14
To check the pressure you need a gauge manifold which costs about $75 (or $40 for the really cheesy Harbor Freight version). For a very quick and dirty test you could unscrew one of the service port caps (plastic, says "L" or "H" on it), underneath there is a valve similar to a tire valve. Press that valve down very briefly and if absolutely nothing comes out, there is a big hole in the system somewhere and you probably should seek professional help.
#15
To check the pressure you need a gauge manifold which costs about $75 (or $40 for the really cheesy Harbor Freight version). For a very quick and dirty test you could unscrew one of the service port caps (plastic, says "L" or "H" on it), underneath there is a valve similar to a tire valve. Press that valve down very briefly and if absolutely nothing comes out, there is a big hole in the system somewhere and you probably should seek professional help.
Thanks
#16
To check the pressure you need a gauge manifold which costs about $75 (or $40 for the really cheesy Harbor Freight version). For a very quick and dirty test you could unscrew one of the service port caps (plastic, says "L" or "H" on it), underneath there is a valve similar to a tire valve. Press that valve down very briefly and if absolutely nothing comes out, there is a big hole in the system somewhere and you probably should seek professional help.
Thanks
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