A/C not working - please advise
#1
A/C not working - please advise
Hi All civic DIY gurus......
I am having a hard time fixing my Civic 2004 sedan A/C and I am looking for someone’s help and advice.
The problem is! I did turn my A/C on and figured out that there is no difference in air temperature; it is not getting any colder. Did open my hood and found that the condenser fan not spinning. OK, did check if there are any fuses blown (did check all of them) and found fuse #1 in under hood box blown....I did put a new fuse but this fan is still not working. Fine!!! So, the blower works as I am getting air through blow holes when A/C is ON, compressor not spinning, condenser fan not spinning. I was thinking maybe it is some electrical problem!!! So, I did check A/C wire harness and found out a small difference between my harness configuration and whatever is in Honda Documentation. Basically, the A/C wire harness should have a ground connection in the place when it goes around condenser fan (just above it)....but somehow my harness doesn’t have this connection at all. I did trace my harness and it goes from compressor and receiver into cable interface, than this interface merges with condenser fan cables ....and then this big harness goes all the way around merging with some other cable interfaces, goes under fuse box.....etc. BTW, condenser fan doesn't ground connection connected to the car body as well, it has a black cable but it goes inside of the harness as I have described before.
Is there any way to find out what is going on? I know that I can test condenser fan by connecting it's blue cable to the battery's "+" and black to car ground, right?
I am having a hard time fixing my Civic 2004 sedan A/C and I am looking for someone’s help and advice.
The problem is! I did turn my A/C on and figured out that there is no difference in air temperature; it is not getting any colder. Did open my hood and found that the condenser fan not spinning. OK, did check if there are any fuses blown (did check all of them) and found fuse #1 in under hood box blown....I did put a new fuse but this fan is still not working. Fine!!! So, the blower works as I am getting air through blow holes when A/C is ON, compressor not spinning, condenser fan not spinning. I was thinking maybe it is some electrical problem!!! So, I did check A/C wire harness and found out a small difference between my harness configuration and whatever is in Honda Documentation. Basically, the A/C wire harness should have a ground connection in the place when it goes around condenser fan (just above it)....but somehow my harness doesn’t have this connection at all. I did trace my harness and it goes from compressor and receiver into cable interface, than this interface merges with condenser fan cables ....and then this big harness goes all the way around merging with some other cable interfaces, goes under fuse box.....etc. BTW, condenser fan doesn't ground connection connected to the car body as well, it has a black cable but it goes inside of the harness as I have described before.
Is there any way to find out what is going on? I know that I can test condenser fan by connecting it's blue cable to the battery's "+" and black to car ground, right?
#4
I did some testing. No, fuse is fine all the time, I did event try to switch this fuse with another from the under hood box. I did test conderser fan just by connecting it's black wire to the ground and another wire to the "+" battery and it is spinning.
Thanks
#5
Unplug the pressure switch on the receiver drier and check it for continuity. If open it's probably because all the refrigerant has leaked out. If that's OK, check the temperature switch on the compressor, it should also be closed circuit.
#6
I did spend some time researching what could be a possible reason and I lot of people seaying that the very common reason for civics to have this problem is compressor thermal protector, what do you think?
#7
Unplug the harness from the switch then use an ohm meter to measure the resistance between the two pins on the switch (touch one probe to each pin). It should be near zero ohms (a closed circuit). If you get the same reading as with the meter leads not connected to anything (usually a single "1" on the screen), the switch is open.
Last edited by mk378; 05-28-2010 at 08:17 AM.
#8
Unplug the harness from the switch then use an ohm meter to measure the resistance between the two pins on the switch (touch one probe to each pin). It should be near zero ohms (a closed circuit). If you get the same reading as with the meter leads not connected to anything (usually a single "1" on the screen), the switch is open.
#9
Unplug the harness from the switch then use an ohm meter to measure the resistance between the two pins on the switch (touch one probe to each pin). It should be near zero ohms (a closed circuit). If you get the same reading as with the meter leads not connected to anything (usually a single "1" on the screen), the switch is open.