Hello to everyone, I am brand new to this forum. I have a question about batteries, that I would appreciate anyone's help on. It is a two part question:

1. I have a 2000 Civc (EX sedan with a 5-speed). In the interest of saving weight I am looking at sealed, dry cell batteries. I am looking at two different batteries, and I was hoping you could tell me what the pros and cons of each one are. The first is an Optima (the 51R). It's specs are 500 cold-cranking amps at 0 degrees F; 625 cold-cranking amps at 32 degrees F; Reserve capacity is 70; weight is 26 lbs. The second battery is an Odyssey (PC680MJT). It's specs are 210 cold-cranking amps at 0 degrees F; 270 cold-cranking amps at 32 degrees F; Reserve capacity is 24; weight is 15 lbs. Obviously I would prefer the lighter weight of the Odyssey. However, I am concerned about the significantly less cranking amps and reserve capacity. To be perfectly honest I don't know what those numbers mean exactly, but I think I get the idea that the Odyssey is not as powerful. Part of the issue is that my girlfriend drives the car often and I wouldn't want my lightweight battery to leave her stranded because of its lessened capacity.

2. The second part to my question is a little simpler (I think). I am very interested in placing whichever battery I buy in the trunk. However, I was wondering what exactly would be required (in terms of extra-long cables, etc.) in order to place it there. Is there a resource or company that you know of that could meet my needs with the battery relocation components?

It is probably relevant, so the car is in the Northwest (Washington state), and so it definitely has to deal with cold weather during the winter months. If you could help me with any information/advice or even a referral to somone else who could help, I would really appreciate it. Thanks very much for your time.

 

Sorry, I can't help with phase 1 of your question. However I do have words for part 2.

I know that summitracing.com sells a conversion kit for about $45 that will probably work for you. However, there is a draw back. On rear wheel drive vehicles this has a positive effect. By moving a 40lbs battery from the front of the car to the rear works like an uneven see-saw with the drive axle being the center point. By removing that 40lbs from the front and placing it in the rear has the effect of removing 400 lbs from the front. On a REAR wheel drive vehicle this is very good.

By doing this on a front wheel drive vehicle however is not so good. By relocating that same 40lb battery to the rear of a Front WD is like adding 400lbs to the rear of the car. Actually it is more like 250 to 300lbs since front WD vehicles are shorter then your average RWD vehicles.

At the same time, if you plan on any serious mods to increase your HP, you will need that extra weight over the front wheels. My 99 EX was dyno tested at 233HP and I can't get the front end to stick in 1st or 2nd.

Just something to think about before making the move.

 

not quite. a civic has roughly 65/35 front/rear weight distribution, so moving the 40# battery to the rear will make it a little closer to the perfect 50/50. a FF car like a civic can benefit greatly from moving weight to the rear, it will help cure understeer problems. as for the traction problems, get an LSD and a traction bar, that will make a huge difference, and you will be able to lighten the car more, giving you more acceleration and esp. better handling. weighing down the drive wheels is an old muscle car trick that doesnt ussually bode as well for weight sensitive, low torque imports. as well as the extra weight hurting the cornering abilities.

 

and as for the amperage, if you lived in a warm climate like Phoenix or San Diego, I might say to go for it, but in a cold climate, the lower CCAs means that it takes more of the batteries availible power to start the car, then it will recharge as you drive. then you start it again and use more power and then it will charge again. this is called Deep Cycling, and will kill a battery in no time. if it is cold you need more CCAs to start it. so in cold places, get the bigger battery.

 

Sorry but the law of physics does not support your comment. If this were true everyone would be doing it. I will not argue that it can help in the handling department. Removing weight from above the drive wheels and moving it somewhere else WILL cause traction issues. That percentage is determined by the weight and distance from the drive axle.

As for the traction issue - LSD will do alot however it will cost some coin. The part alone will cost around 3 bill then you have the pleasure of dropping the tranny and installing the LSD. If you can do the work yourself great. If not you can expect to send at least 2 bills more. That's $500 just because the 40# battery was relocated. The traction bar will only help if you are having issues with wheel hop.

Again this is only an issue if you are planning to do some serious mods to the engine.