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Aligning crank to Cam on 99 SOHC

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  #21  
Old 06-01-2009, 01:46 PM
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You may be off by a tooth but, before messing with the timing belt, try rotating the distributor.

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Last edited by RonJ; 06-01-2009 at 01:58 PM.
  #22  
Old 06-01-2009, 01:50 PM
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Ill adjust the distributor right now, if i cant get it in spec and i do need to go back a tooth would i be needing to turn the cam in the direction of the yellow arrow? and is there a way to loosen the adjustment bolt and just nudge the cam sprocket one tooth?
 
  #23  
Old 06-01-2009, 01:50 PM
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If you cannot set the timing by turning the distributor, then the belt is off by a tooth. Remove the valve cover and upper timing belt cover. Turn the crank pulley counterclockwise until the cam pulley is positioned perfectly at TDC1 (see diagrams). At this position, how far off is the crank pulley from TDC1? It may help to post photos of the cam and crank pulley when you have done this procedure.
 
  #24  
Old 06-01-2009, 02:23 PM
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Well i took a bunch of photos so here they are.





 
  #25  
Old 06-01-2009, 02:40 PM
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What happened when you turned the distributor?

Based on the pictures, the cam pulley is perfectly positioned at TDC1, whereas the crank pulley TDC1 mark is off (probably by one tooth) to the left with respect to the crank pointers. By the way, there are two pointers, high and low, for the crank pulley. You aim those like you would the site of gun. At TDC1, both the top and bottom pointer should align with the TDC1 mark on the crank pulley.

I think the cam gear needs to move one tooth counterclockwise without moving the crank pulley. I am not sure, but you may be able to loosen the tensioner bolt, slide the belt off the cam pulley and turn it one tooth, and then slide the belt back on. Be very careful not to damage the timing belt during this process. Otherwise, you should remove the crank pulley again.

Afterward, turn the crank 5 revolutions counterclockwise and then verify that the cam and crank perfectly synchronize at TDC1. If so, tension the belt and you should be good to go.
 

Last edited by RonJ; 06-01-2009 at 02:46 PM.
  #26  
Old 06-01-2009, 04:29 PM
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it looks like your close enough to rotate the distributor to correct the timing... at least to me... when i was off a tooth i had to rotate the distributor all the way to one side for it to even get close to the timing mark....
you have to set the distributor if your swapping the belt... basically your old belt stretched so the new belt would be tighter and throw the distributor off a bit. just tweak it alittle.

and to your wierd idle... i must ask did you replace the water pump? if you did replace the water pump then you just have air in the system... jack the front of the car up as much as posible and take off the radiator cap and start up the motor and let it run for ruffly 15mins and this should cycle the thermostat a few times and work and bubbles out of the system. bubbles in a civic can cause hell to the idle! and once its cycled a few times then fill up the system again with radiator fluid and put the cap back on and see how it idles then.
 
  #27  
Old 06-01-2009, 11:52 PM
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So I was able to slip the belt off the cam and move it a tooth counterclockwise. That ended up making the timing WAAAYYYYY off so i had to end up slipping the belt off again and moving 2 teeth clockwise and i got it in spec. Fired up and timing was good. Drove it around some and the hunting idle dissapeared but i did still have somewhat of a raised idle although im not sure because this base model car has no tach but o well its an auto so im not too worried. Thanks for all the input fellas. Car will now hit the market and im on to my next project(throwing vortech S/C on my Is300)
 
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