Also if this is the case would i want to move the cam 1 or 2 teeth and would i need to move it in the direction of the yellow arrow below? and is there any way for me to loosen the belt enough to spin the cam a tooth withouth the entire timing belt process again if is the case?

 

I think your mechanical timing is fine. To test the ignition timing, the idle speed must be at spec. Did you jump the service connector when checking the ignition timing? Did you try rotating the distributor in an attempt to align the red (middle) mark with the pointer?

 

I could not find the check connector the manual wrote about. I figured since i was just checking not adjusting the timing it wouldnt make a difference. But if its as far off as i said would that not mean its at least a 1/2 tooth off(1 cam tooth)? If you can help me locate the check connector i will go jump it and try checking the timing again with the car fully warmed up and make sure idle is solid. If its still off that much you dont think the distributor will help to bring it back in spec do you?

 

Click the CEL link in my signature. It shows the location and appearance of the service connector. Don't mess with the timing belt until you try to adjust the ignition timing by rotating the distributor with the service connector jumped. I think you will find that the timing belt is fine.

 

well a bit of advice for next time you do a timing belt swap is dont put the plastic covers back on or any accessories back up. you dont need the alternator or powersteering/ac hooked up to test.....
my first time i did my timing belt i was off a tooth or two and had to pull everything back off again to adjust the belt HUGE PITA!!!!
if you try and drive it when its a tooth off youll notice the performance is missing very bad.LOL

 

SO i jumped the connector and the timing is way off still but for some reason the idle is extremely irradic. My friend says it was not like this before. Any clue what may be going on to cause the jumping idle? I have read that being off a tooth can cause idle problems like this hunting/jumping idle.

 

One way the ECU controls idle speed is to vary the spark timing. It does not do that in test mode so you can set the zero timing point. Check the mechanical timing again just to be sure. I suggest probing in cylinder #1 with a suitable metal rod to find the true TDC of the piston and thus the crank. This way you only need to take the top plastic cover off.

 

How far off?

Did you try to rotate the distributor to get the timing to spec?

 

Ron has a good point, you almost always need to adjust spark timing after changing the timing belt. Properly set, the distributor should end up near the middle of it's adjustment range. If you need to set it all the way to one end of the slots, consider the timing belt may be off a tooth.

 

The pointer on the tb case is lining even further left than the green mark(not enough pulley in the photo to show where it really is) about 1/2 more left of the green mark, and the distributor is lined up in the center of its adjustment slot.


I haven't messed with the distributor yet because the idle is surging extrememly bad. Im guessing 1000rpm fluctuations at least. With the timing off this far and the idle surging like this it only leads me to believe im off at least a tooth. If you guys can think of anything else that can cause it please let me know before i tear it back apart. I will try to adjust the distiubtor to see if i can get the timing close but ive never seen ignition timing cause an idle problem like this as well as cure something this far out of time.