There is a BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires connected to the coil. Call the terminal to which the BLK/YEL is connected terminal A and the other one terminal B. The circular thing on the side of a coil is a secondary winding terminal. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between the terminals. The A and B terminals - 0.63-0.77 ohms, and between terminal A and secondary winding terminal - 9,760-14,640 ohms. If they are not in this range it's a bad coil.

If you still have your old distributor you could always return the new one and just buy a coil if that's what the problem is.

 

That's what I was thinking. I could save quite a bit that way, as long as the ICM isn't bad as well...

 

You could always put the old coil in the new distributor and see how the car runs.
Changing coils takes 5 min so no big deal.

If you do this and the car starts don't be discouraged, drive the car so the coil gets warmed up and see if the problem comes back. Sometimes coils will work fine when they're cold only to have issues once they get hot.