97 EX: Coil testing question
#1
97 EX: Coil testing question
Hi all, I have a no start issue. In testing my TEC coil I get 16.11 Ohms on secondary winding. On primary winding I get 1.1 Ohms. The setting on my multimeter says 200Ohms. Thought it was out of spec so I bought a new one that Advance said I could return. It too read 1.1 Ohms on the primary winding. What's up? Spec says, .63 - .77 ohms. Is my meter wrong cause it doesn't go to any range smaller than 200Ohms? I don't have any smaller setting.
Here are details of why I'm testing the coil.
Sometimes I get a sputter but only in the 1st second or so. Additionally, when I attach a spark tester to one of the plug wires I get a weak spark within the 1st or 2nd second and no more. Plugs are wet with fuel. Checked fuse 9. It's ok. Relay clicks when trying to start and runs fuel pump for 2 seconds then I hear a relay click again. CEL does not come on cause someone disabled or removed bulb as they removed secondary 02 sensor and Cat. converter. and didn't want it on all the time. I had new universal Cat. installed.
Anyway, I turned my attention to the coil and ICM.
Thanks.
Here are details of why I'm testing the coil.
Sometimes I get a sputter but only in the 1st second or so. Additionally, when I attach a spark tester to one of the plug wires I get a weak spark within the 1st or 2nd second and no more. Plugs are wet with fuel. Checked fuse 9. It's ok. Relay clicks when trying to start and runs fuel pump for 2 seconds then I hear a relay click again. CEL does not come on cause someone disabled or removed bulb as they removed secondary 02 sensor and Cat. converter. and didn't want it on all the time. I had new universal Cat. installed.
Anyway, I turned my attention to the coil and ICM.
Thanks.
#2
Take cap off and try to jump sparks from the coil output to a grounded test wire. You should get blue sparks that can jump 3/4 inch.
Ohmmeter tests of a coil are pretty much useless. In particular they will show a lot of bad coils as good. When measuring very low ohms you need to first touch the test probes together (a zero ohm circuit), chances are it will read more than zero due to resistance of the wires. Subtract that reading from what you read measuring the component under test.
Have you ruled out other no-start possibilities like lack of compression or improper timing?
Ohmmeter tests of a coil are pretty much useless. In particular they will show a lot of bad coils as good. When measuring very low ohms you need to first touch the test probes together (a zero ohm circuit), chances are it will read more than zero due to resistance of the wires. Subtract that reading from what you read measuring the component under test.
Have you ruled out other no-start possibilities like lack of compression or improper timing?
#3
Thanks for suggestions mk. Cant get blue sparks or to jump more than about 1/4 inch. Also, I have not ruled out lack of compression, but even though car has 205k on it, it ran one day and didn't the next so I did not test compression. Ruled out Timing. Belt looks new, all teeth are there. Put to TDC and Rotor contact was at no. 1 cylinder.
Tried brand new distributor cap. Rotor looks good. Car trying to fire more now, after initial cranking but still just a stutter. Probably should have installed the new coil, but took back. Will try ICM as Advance says I can return if it is not the culprit.
Tried brand new distributor cap. Rotor looks good. Car trying to fire more now, after initial cranking but still just a stutter. Probably should have installed the new coil, but took back. Will try ICM as Advance says I can return if it is not the culprit.
#5
solved the problem with a new distributor assy. It most likely was the coil or the ICM and since ebay had the whole assy for about the same price as the ICM at Advance, I purchased it from ebay. Anyway, I have to time it and I'm good. Hope the aftermarket dizzy holds up. I know some didn't have good luck with them. Thanks.
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