I havnt done any thing yet all my buddies cars are crapping out hopefully this weekend ill be workin on it and ill update u guys.

 

so i ended up unbolting the drivers side of the subframe and i used a pipe and a jack to some what pry it down enough to get the lines through. I just have to bolt the subframe and gas tank straps back then ill basically be done beside bleeding the brakes which im most liking going to have to replace the wheel cyclinders

 

I am doing this now , tried useing a Haynes manual, it is totalt worthless for this proceedure.
I chose to gain a greater acess by removing the fuel tank so I can have room to bend the lies arround the frame
1) losen the lug nuts on all tires
2) jack it up as high as you can saftely
3) pull the tires, using penatrating oil hose the fittings and the bleeding screws, then use a tourch to heat them up before tring to free them
4) drain any fuel from the tank, there is a drain plug on the tank remove any plactic shielding fron the fuel tank and the filler spout
5) remove the rear seat to have acess to the top of the fuel tank
carefuly remove the sending connections and the fuel lines
6) support the gas tank with a jack , remove the straps thar hold the tank to the underbody.
7) you will have to cut the line to remove it, keep the line in it's original form so you will have a idea how to bend the new line to fit.
This is as far as I have gotten , I am tring to figure how to remove the lines from the fron of the car. This COULD require lowering the subframe of the car to use a one piece line.
That could be the reason people are seeing repairs in the 1200-2000.00 range
I am not amused that it takes this kind of involvment to replace a brake line on a economy car.

 

IF any one has a better idea I'am all for it.

 

I'm still swearing by the way I did it last spring. I didn't have to drop the tank or pull the engine, I just used pre-flared sections with threaded unions. The only downside I can imagine would be corrosion in the future but I coated everything with underbody spray so I can't imagine problems in the next five years

I routed slightly differently than the original lines, mainly around where they enter and exit the straight run under the passenger compartment. Up front I shifted them about 8 inches towards the passenger compartment because there was a way bigger gap to thread them through. Towards the back I just simplified all the bends going to the left rear wheel. Everything is still just as protected, it just doesn't look 'factory' any more

 

i just replaced brake lines on my 96 hatch. theres two plastic tray to remove and then i just ran the back up on ramps. spent 13 on 25 ft line. matched my fittings spent 5 dollars there. twenty for new flexhose in the back and it took me an hour to do both back brakes. the area where the five lines are up front just break them there and pull them out. its not that hard. and just push new line up through. bend it as you go. pre bent lines suck. because they dont fit thru much spaces. try using string or something to pre run lines to get a length too. that helps.

 

Why should lines splices with a automotive compression fitting be a problem? I used them before in my 64 GM with out there ever being a issue. Given how the cars are built today what choise have they left us?
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I am still tring to lower the left side of the sub frame with out it falling on me just a few inches. Once I do that I can get parts and put it back together again( the car is starting to look like humpty dumpty)